A NEW TABLE AND BUFFET

Dining room tableYesterday was a banner day for my daughter Shannon and her husband, Mike. They were the beneficiaries of a swirl of giving that started with Paul and Judy Johnson and extended to Paul’s son Bob and his wife, Kate. Paul and Judy are selling their house and are moving into a smaller one. As a result, they decided to give away many things that would not fit into their smaller home. A large buffet was one such item, and Paul and Judy asked Shannon and Mike if they would like it. Yes, indeed! After some measuring, Shannon and Mike confirmed that it would fit in their long, narrow kitchen, which has a decided lack of storage and counter space.

Then, Paul and Judy gave their big dining room set to Bob and Kate, which meant that Bob and Kate could offer their old set to Mike and Shannon. (I told you it was a swirl of giving.) Mike and Shannon have a very little table that will technically seat six, but when the places are set, there is no room for the food. Bob and Kate’s old dining room table is much bigger. Plenty of room for dinner plates and serving dishes.

Naturally, this meant renting a truck and moving furniture from New Hampshire (where Bob and Kate live) to Maine (where the rest of us live) and then from Maine to New Hampshire. Thus, as Bob put it, Operation Furniture Transfer was born. For Bob and Kate, it was a very long day, but all went well, and miracle of miracles, it was even a sunny day. (Moving furniture in the rain is no fun.) My husband, Clif, took off the day to help with Operation Furniture Transfer, and at the end of the day—and I mean this literally—Shannon and Mike had a new buffet and a new, large dining room table.

We ordered pizza from Pizza Magnolia, and we all gathered round to eat at the old table in the new home.

Many thanks to Paul and Judy and Bob and Kate for their generosity. How good it is to be able to give to family and friends. How good it is to give.

BOOK REVIEW: AS ALWAYS, JULIA: THE LETTERS OF JULIA CHILD & AVIS DEVOTO. EDITED BY JOAN REARDON AND PUBLISHED BY HOUGHTON MIFFLIN HARCOURT, 2010

In this age of the computer—with Facebook, Twitter, and email—handwritten letters are pretty much a thing of the past. While there are probably some holdouts who prefer pen and paper, I expect most of us communicate electronically via the computer. While this kind of communication has its good points—speed and ease—it also has one very big drawback—impermanence. Simply put, letters written on paper have much more lasting power than messages sent through email.

We can only be grateful, then, that Julia Child and her friend, mentor, and confidante Avis DeVoto did not have use of computers when they were middle-aged women. Otherwise, we never would have had the many letters they sent to each other, starting in 1952 and ending in 1988, a year before Avis DeVoto’s death. For the letters in As Always, Julia are more than just a chronicle of everyday life in Europe (Julia Child) and Boston (Avis DeVoto) in the 1950s and early 1960s, when the book ends. These letters, arranged and edited by Joan Reardon, trace the arc of a remarkable phenomenon that, like most phenomena, would seem to be a foregone conclusion but really wasn’t. I am referring, of course, to the publication of Mastering the Art of French Cooking, which did so much to change the way Americans cook. While most foodies know that Julia Child was the driving force behind Mastering the Art of French Cooking—Simone Beck and Louisette Bertholle also worked on the book—few foodies realize the pivotal role that Avis DeVoto played in getting this important cookbook published. DeVoto has been called “the midwife” of Mastering the Art of French Cooking, and I don’t think that’s an exaggeration. Indeed, after reading As Always Julia, I wondered if Julia Child ever would have become JULIA CHILD without DeVoto’s help. We’ll never know, of course, but it’s fascinating to think about, and this book is a terrific lesson about the importance of friends.

It’s funny and somehow appropriate that the correspondence began with a knife. Bernard DeVoto, Avis’s husband, was a historian and a journalist. In a 1951 issue of Harper’s, Bernard DeVoto bemoaned the deplorable state of American knives, which were by and large stainless steel and thus couldn’t hold an edge. Julia Child and her husband, Paul, read the article, and even though neither of them knew Bernard DeVoto, they admired his writing, and Julia decided to send him a good knife along with a short letter of explanation. At the time, the Childs were living in Paris, and it was easy for them to get good knives. Avis DeVoto, “mainstay of and secretary to her husband, the mother of two sons, a reviewer of whodunits for the Boston Globe, an editor, an accomplished cook…” answered Julia’s letter and thanked her for the knife. Something immediately clicked between the two women, which resulted in more letters and a friendship that would last until Avis died in 1989.

When Julia Child first began corresponding with Avis DeVoto, Mastering the Art of French Cooking wasn’t really Mastering the Art of French Cooking. Instead, the proposed title was French Cooking for All, and the original idea was for it to be published in five individual volumes by Ives Washburn. Julia Child decided to send a first draft to Avis DeVoto, “who immediately saw [the book’s] potential” and thought it should go to Houghton Mifflin, her husband’s publisher. The manuscript did indeed go to Houghton Mifflin, and when they eventually got cold feet because of the manuscript’s length, Avis DeVoto managed to convince Alfred A. Knopf and a “talented young editor” named Judith Jones to read the manuscript and to consider publishing it as one long book. This they did, and Mastering the Art of French Cooking was finally born. This, of course, is only the briefest summation of what really happen during the long, long gestation of Mastering the Art of French Cooking.

In addition to this fascinating history, the smart and witty personalities of each woman shines clearly in this book. Both were passionate, liberal Democrats who were thrown into despair by Joseph McCarthy and his thugs. Child and DeVoto were interested in books, art, and ideas, and this correspondence should put to rest the notion that the 1950s were an intellectual wasteland. While not everyone was a vibrant thinker and a brilliant conversationalist during the 1950s, the same is also true of people today. I would even venture to guess that the percentages are pretty much the same between now and then, but I don’t have any numbers to back up this hypothesis.

Finally, while I have long been a fan of Julia Child and her large, glowing personality, I became totally smitten by the intense, loyal, funny Avis DeVoto, who did so much for Julia Child. How I would have loved to have had  a conversation with the two of them.

As Always Julia is a fascinating chronicle of a critical era in American food history, and it certainly belongs in the library of anyone who loves and is interested in food.

 

APPLE TART AND SALMON. TAKE THAT, GRAY DAYS!

We have had such a spell of wet, cool weather that many of us are wondering what this summer will be like. Is this a sign of things to come? We sure hope not. Etched in our memories is the summer when it seemed as though it rained for 40 days and 40 nights, and blight struck the tomatoes hard. A summer with no fresh tomatoes is a miserable summer. Their reign of glory is brief but oh so welcome. In Maine, we do have greenhouse tomatoes from Backyard Farms in Madison. They’re not bad—better than what is usually found in grocery stores when tomatoes aren’t in season—but greenhouse tomatoes certainly can’t compete with tomatoes grown outside in the good earth.

This weekend, between showers, my husband, Clif, and I managed to go to the transfer station, where we could dump brush into a giant pile waiting to be composted as well as pick up some of the rich, black humus from a pile that has been composted. Unfortunately, because of all the rain, that area was a mud pit, and we couldn’t park too close to the compost. This meant slogging through the mud with our heavy, compost-filled garbage cans. What fun we had! We were just grateful that it didn’t start pouring until we had returned home, taken the garbage cans from the car, and cleaned the muddy mess left behind in the car boot. We gardeners certainly live on the edge.

However, all was not doom and gloom this weekend. On Saturday, our friends Jim and Dawna Leavitt invited us over for dinner, and they served us grilled wild salmon with a white sauce and chopped egg. I will admit that this is the first time I have had this traditional Yankee dish, and I am also not ashamed to admit that I loved it. Really, I could have lapped the plate. The moderately strong taste of the salmon blended so well with the white sauce and the eggs. A milder fish, such as haddock, would have needed some cheese in that sauce, but not the salmon. Just thinking about the salmon with white sauce and eggs makes me want more, and it was certainly the best meal we had all week.

Salmon with white sauce and eggs

Then, on Sunday, our friends Kate and Bob Johnson stopped by for a visit. I was able to lure them to Pete’s Roast Beef for the incredible roast beef sandwiches, but I also wanted to make a little something to serve at home with tea. My daughter Shannon is a big fan of frozen puff pastry, and it is very good indeed. For some reason, I had never used any, but I just so happened to have a box in my freezer. I also had apples in the refrigerator, brown sugar, and cinnamon. In other words, the fixings for a dessert that was not only simple to make but tasty as well. From finish to end, which included 40 minutes to thaw the dough, this dessert was made in about an hour’s time, with 10 minutes devoted to slicing the apples, mixing them with sugar, and arranging them on the puff pastry. If there is an easier, more delicious dessert, then I haven’t had it.

Apple tart

 

Apple tart with puff pastry

1 sheet of frozen puff pastry
4 small apples, or 3 medium, cored and sliced very thin
1/2 cup of brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon of cinnamon
A pinch of salt

Remove one sheet of puff pastry from the box, and, without unfolding, let it thaw on the counter for 40 minutes. While the puff pastry is thawing, core and slice—as thin as you can—the apples and place them in a mixing bowl. Combine the sugar, cinnamon, and salt and mix with the apples. Do this enough in advance so that the apples and brown sugar can sit for a bit so that apples are really coated with the sugar. When the puff pastry has thawed, unfold and cut it in half the long way. Put the two halves on a parchment-lined cookie sheet, and arrange the apple slices so that they overlap and leave a nice edge. Bake in a preheated 425° oven for 18 to 20 minutes. Serve with either whipped cream or ice cream. While serving this type of dessert warm is always best, the apple tart is perfectly good served cold as well.

 

 

 

 

 

 

BLUEBERRY PIE AND HOMEMADE BREAD

More rain, and I expect the slugs are simply ecstatic. Between downpours, my husband, Clif, and I managed to get to the town’s transfer station to get some of their lovely black compost. Now, if it will only stop raining long enough for me to spread it.

All this gloomy, wet weather could really be depressing. However, we have been invited over to our friends’ house for dinner, and visiting with Jim and Dawna always perks up a rainy day. Or rather, a rainy week.

I will be bringing homemade bread.

Bread

 

And homemade blueberry pie.

Blueberry pie

 

Who cares if it’s a rainy day? Well, maybe I still do 😉

 

 

PHOTOS ON A GRAY MAY DAY

Another gray day in the neighborhood. Too wet to work in the gardens, even though they really need attention. What to do but take photos of the wet beauty in the backyard?

The irises are just starting to bloom. I love their vibrant purple.

Purple Iris

Some Jack-in-the-pulpits seeded themselves—with a little bird help, perhaps?—in the way back. I’m amazed that our dog, Liam, hasn’t trampled them, and I’m hoping he doesn’t.

Ms. Watson is inspecting the garden. I try to discourage her from taking a bite out of the plants, but you know how it is with cats. They pretty much do as they please.

Everyone at the little house in the big woods is hoping the sun will soon come out!

SPAGHETTI SAUCE WITH DOG FOOD

A few nights ago, I decided to make a spaghetti sauce. The way my husband, Clif, and I like spaghetti sauce best is with bits of sausage, cooked in little balls, thrown into the sauce to simmer right along with it. However, as I have indicated in previous posts, for environmental reasons, we have decided to eat “mostly vegetarian,” and what this pretty much means is that we are meatless during the week, saving special meat treats for the weekend (e.g., Pete’s Roast Beef sandwiches).

So for our midweek meal of sauce and pasta, we wondered if we could substitute TVP (textured vegetable protein) for the sausage and get a pleasing albeit different result. Would TVP give the sauce that extra little kick that sausage gives it? After all, although the name sounds a little sterile and scientific, TVP is really just defatted soy flour. Nothing objectionable there, and both Clif and I tend to like all things soy, even tofu, if it’s prepared the right way.

Unfortunately, the TVP did not deliver. We used the chunks, letting them simmer with the sauce, and although it would be unfair to say that the TVP ruined the sauce, it certainly didn’t add anything, either. The texture—a bit on the squishy side—was acceptable, but the taste was, well, blah. The TVP picked up some of the sauce taste, but not enough to make it delectable. And, readers, I’m afraid it did look as though I had thrown a couple of handfuls of dog kibbles into the sauce.

With the taste of TVP being blah and the looks being like dog food, my vote would be to go with just a plain tomato sauce and say to heck with the TVP. Clif, I think, liked it better than I did; he enjoyed the added texture. However, he is fine with a plain tomato sauce, and that is what I will be making during the week.

For weekends or for company, I would get the above-mentioned sausage. If I wanted a bang-up sauce, I might even add some shrimp as well, at the very last minute, of course, so that it wouldn’t overcook.

I am happy to report that despite the dog-food appearance of the TVP, the sauce itself was so good and so simple that it’s worth sharing.

 

Simple Spaghetti Sauce

1 28 oz. can of crushed tomatoes with basil
4 cloves of garlic, chopped
1 sweet red pepper, chopped
2 tablespoons of olive oil
2 tablespoons of red wine
2 pinches of crushed red pepper, or to taste

In a large frying pan, sauté the red peppers a few minutes until they are slightly soft. Add the garlic and sauté for about a minute. Don’t let the garlic burn! Immediately add the crushed tomatoes, the red wine, and the crushed red pepper. (It was at this point that I added a couple of handfuls of TVP.) Let the sauce simmer for at least 45 minutes so that all the flavors mingle.

For a very special sauce, add cooked sausage (I like mine rolled in little balls) to the sauce before letting it simmer. For an extra-special sauce, also throw in some shrimp at the very last minute, and let the mixture simmer only long enough for the shrimp to be warmed through. You might have to test a shrimp or two, just to be sure. (One of the perks of being the cook.)

Note about the wine: Use the best quality you can afford. A poor-quality wine will make an inferior-tasting sauce.

 

 

 

 

 

 

WARM BREAD AND A REFLECTION ABOUT SMALL TOWNS

This is not exactly a Let Them Eat Bread report, which chronicles my project of giving away at least one loaf of bread each week in 2011, but this post does involve a loaf of bread that I gave away last night and the events that rippled around it. Each month, my library—Charles M. Bailey Public Library—hosts an author’s night where various Maine writers come to read from their books and to talk about their work. Among others, I have heard Brock Clarke and Gerry Boyle, both of whom are terrific speakers. Last night, Susan Hand Shetterly, a very fine nature writer, was the featured author.

The program was to start at 6:30, and I decided this would be the perfect opportunity to make a loaf of bread for Richard, the library’s director. (I’ve already given a loaf to Shane, and my plan is to give a loaf to all the librarians and the assistants.) So I duly made bread, using part unbleached flour and part whole wheat pastry flour, the latter of which actually comes from Maine. (I’ll soon have to post my revised bread recipe. It really is a good one.)

At 6:15, I walked into the library, and the loaf of bread I carried was still so warm that I had to leave the plastic bag open so moisture wouldn’t accumulate. With warm bread comes a wonderful smell. As I handed the bread to Richard, who took it without hesitation, Mike Sienko, whom I work with at the Food Pantry, said, “You can put me on your bread list.” Perhaps I will.

Mary Sturtevant, another patron who was there for the reading, emerged from the stacks saying, “What a great smell!” I’ve known Mary for many years, and I’m thinking she should be on my bread list, too.

In the periodical room (reading room?) chairs were set up for the speaker. I sat down, and Lorraine Ravis, whom I hadn’t seen for years, sat down beside me. Her daughter Lisa and my daughter Shannon were chums in school, and we spent a pleasant 15 minutes or so catching up on news. Around 6:30, a worried looking Shane came in and announced that Susan Hand Shetterly hadn’t arrived, that he had called her publicist, who was positive Shetterly was planning to come to the reading. Everyone in the audience decided to wait another 15 minutes. I chatted some more with Lorraine, and there was the friendly buzz of conversation as other people talked as well. Richard, who hadn’t had dinner, tore into the warm bread.

At 6:45, Shane made another announcement. Shetterly still hadn’t arrived, and they couldn’t reach her on her cell phone. We all decided to wait until 7:00, just in case. More conversation. But at 7:00, there was still no author, and we all concluded that for some reason, she wasn’t going to come. Shane, in his usual kind way, expressed the hope that Shetterly had just forgot about the reading, that she hadn’t been in some kind of accident. We all nodded.

Then a funny thing happened. Most of us stayed until 7:30 or so, carrying on with our conversations. When we finally got up to leave, Mary Sturtevant said, “Well, Susan Hand Shetterly didn’t show up, but I had a good time anyway.”

I did, too, staying until 8:00 to talk with Shane and Richard. While both were naturally disappointed that Shetterly didn’t make it to the reading, they were tickled that the patrons had had such a good time anyway.

Many of us who came to the reading have lived in Winthrop for years and years and are at least casually acquainted. When residents of a small town have this kind of history with each other, a warm, comfortable familiarity often develops, and this sense of community is what makes living in a small town so worthwhile. Richard and Shane, both young enough to be my sons, have done much to encourage this sense of community, and how lucky we are to have them at the library. (And, yes, having lived in small towns all of my life, I am aware of how grudges and resentments can simmer in small towns. This, too, is part of the mix.)

Warm bread, a drizzly evening, a group of townspeople who know each other, an author who didn’t show up. Just another night in a small town in central Maine, a night that will be fondly remembered.

Addendum: As it turned out, Susan Hand Shetterly has a poor memory and did forget that she was supposed to come to Winthrop. She called Richard this morning to apologize and to assure him that she wants to reschedule. I’ll be there, and I expect most everyone else who came last night will be there as well.

 

HOPEFUL NEWS FROM DETROIT

In the New York Times, Mark Bittman has written a terrific piece about a recent trip to Detroit. As readers well know, Detroit has fallen on some very hard times and indeed has lost much of its population. But, with abandoned buildings and lots have come opportunities for farming and food, and Detroit seems to be in the process of making a comeback as a city that gardens. Very encouraging for all kinds of reasons, not the least of which there is something about farmers’ markets, local bakeries and restaurants, and community gardens that bring a town or a city together. In short, along with providing tasty, nutritious food, they also build community, something we all need, no matter where we live.

SHANNON AND MIKE’S FIRST DINNER FOR GUESTS

Cornish henOn Sunday, my husband, Clif, the dog, and I went to South Portland to have dinner at Shannon and Mike’s new place in South Portland. It’s been two weeks since Shannon and Mike moved in, and they felt that they were sufficiently unpacked and organized enough to host a small dinner party. Along with inviting us, they invited our friends Bob and Kate, who live in New Hampshire, about an hour away from South Portland.

It didn’t take us long to realize that Shannon and Mike’s new apartment is a halfway point for Bob and Kate and Clif and me to meet. Luckily for us, Shannon and Mike love to cook and have company. Shannon made what is coming to be one of her signature meals, and it is so good that I am thinking it should become one of mine, as well. Shannon served Cornish hens stuffed with lemon and fresh thyme and drizzled with butter, more lemon, and more thyme. What a moist, lovely, fragrant dish! Elegant, even. With it she served a green bean, fennel, and feta cheese salad and roasted red potatoes.

I brought appetizers—a couple of boxes of store-bought crackers and a homemade cream cheese spread with walnuts and a bit of brown sugar. I also brought a spicy yogurt cheese spread purchased from Wholesome Holmstead in Winthrop. And homemade bread.

CakeKate came with her incredible chocolate cake, one that she made once when we went to their place for a visit and one that I daydream about from time to time. I am not really a cake person. Although I like them well enough, I am much fonder of pies, mousses, and crisps. This cake, though, is at the top of my list of desserts I love. When Kate told me what went into the cake, I understood why: 12 eggs, a pound of butter, chocolate, two cups of sugar, and, most important, only 1 cup of flour. I am a real fan of low flour/no flour chocolate cakes. I love their rich, chocolate intensity.

So we had quite a feast in the new apartment, which is becoming so cozy and comfortable.

Equally good was the conversation. We all just love talking with each other about the usual favorite subjects: books, movies, food, art, politics, and family. The time just sped by. In fact, it sped by so quickly that when Kate asked, “What time is it?” and Bob answered “Twenty past seven,” we were all shocked that it was so late.

As we said our goodbyes, Kate recommended that in the future, we should take turns making the main meal, that it wouldn’t be fair to Shannon to have to provide it for us every single time we get together. A good idea, and Shannon suggested that we do a round Robin, where one person brings dessert, another the appetizer, and the third the main meal. I expect this is exactly what we will do.

At the tableWhile I am still sorry that Shannon and Mike are no longer 20 minutes away, how fun to have them in South Portland, where they are a halfway point for all of us to meet and eat and talk.

 

ROAST BEEF SANDWICHES FROM PETE’S ROAST BEEF

Roast beef sandwichI have a confession to make. Despite the fact that my husband, Clif, and I recently made the decision to be “mostly vegetarian,” we have discovered a shop in downtown Winthrop—Pete’s Roast Beef—that has such incredible roast beef sandwiches that we are often sorely tempted to stray from our mostly vegetarian path. All I can say is I am glad we added the word mostly to vegetarian, thus giving ourselves some wiggle room. On the other hand, if we had decided to be true vegetarians, we never would have gone into Pete’s Roast Beef to try their sandwiches, and we would have thus avoided temptation. But then we never would have had one of those sandwiches with beef that that is sliced thin, a little rare, moist, tender, flavorful, and roasted right there in the shop. As if all this weren’t enough, the prices are as incredible as the taste—$6 will get you a good-sized sandwich.

I love the sandwiches so much that I am constantly scheming to find an excuse to eat at Pete’s. The only way I can really justify it to myself is if I meet friends there for lunch or a light supper. Last week, we met Joel Johnson on Saturday. His wife, Alice, was singing in a concert at the Winthrop Performing Arts Center. Unfortunately, she couldn’t join us, but Joel, Clif, and I had a tasty roast beef supper before the concert. Alice instructed Joel to bring her a sandwich for after the concert, which he did.

Yesterday, I met Claire Hersom. We were supposed to go to the Congregational Church for their fish chowder, but Claire was busy until after the luncheon ended.

“Why not meet at Pete’s Roast Beef?” I asked.

“Why not?” she agreed.

We not only got roast beef sandwiches, but we also shared a small order of French fries. While the fries are not hand cut—they are frozen—they are of higher quality than average and taste very good hot from the fryer.

My next plans? As a thank you for all their hard work, I have offered to buy lunch for Richard and Shane, two of the town’s  librarians. And where have I offered to take them? Guess.

Looking ahead…our daughter Shannon is keen on trying the roast beef sandwiches, and the next time she and her husband come for a visit, we will no doubt hit Pete’s. Then, when my friend Sybil comes back from England in a couple of weeks, she will want to tell me all about her trip. What better place than Pete’s?

So opportunities do present themselves, and if they should somehow run out, well, I guess Clif and I will just have to go on our own for our weekend treat. (We more or less follow a regime of six days of healthy, vegetarian cooking and one day of fried food or meat.)  Suddenly, the Red Barn (great fried chicken) and Bolley’s (great fish and chips) just got some serious competition for our weekend treat.

 

 

 

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