STILLMEADOW DAYBOOK BY GLADYS TABER

picture of bookThanks, yet again, to Nan and her blog, Letters from a Hill Farm, for introducing me to the books of Gladys Taber, who lived and wrote at Stillmeadow, an old farmhouse in Connecticut. The book I am reading, Stillmeadow Daybook, was published in 1955 by J. B. Lippincott Company, and in it Taber chronicles each month of the year on her farm. She starts with April, which is a good place to begin when gardening is central to your life. In her forward Taber writes, “There is something about the task of preparing vegetables that gives a woman a reflective mood. I wondered how many tons of potatoes I had pared since we put our roots down here in these forty acres of stony Connecticut soil.”

Taber loved the white farm house, built in 1690, from the moment she saw it: “[W]ith its steeply pitched roof, little windows with bubbly glass, and worn lintel, I knew I belonged to it.” But how Taber came to own this house and live there is a little unconventional. Taber, her husband, and her daughter were living in New York City as were Taber’s good friend Jill, her husband, and two children. Both families wanted a house in the country, “a week-end place where we could have outdoor living in peace…where vacations and holidays could be, we felt, very economical.”

So the two families pitched their fortunes together, bought the house, and, amazingly enough, they all got exactly what they wanted. As the children in both families grew and went to “various schools and colleges,” Stillmeadow was the home they could come back to. Even more amazing, over the years, the friendship between the two families didn’t fray with the tensions that must inevitably come with joint ownership. According to the book’s forward, when both Gladys and Jill became widows, they decided to live together at Stillmeadow, which became their “refuge and a haven.” Jill and Gladys had gardens where they raised all their vegetables, and they raised dogs as well. At one point they had thirty-six cocker spaniels, although in Stillmeadow Daybook, they are down to eight cocker spaniels and one Irish setter.

If Stillmeadow Daybook were only about country living—cooking, family, and food—then that would certainly be enough. To me, these are subjects that never grow old. But Taber, a writer and a creative writing teacher, had other things on her mind, too. Her thoughts about poetry—Keats was a favorite—world peace, literature, and other larger subjects are folded into the homely details of life at Stillmeadow, and they bring depth to this charming book. Here is Taber’s take on fiction: “I think novels and short stories will probably be around as long as men can read at all. And there is a great satisfaction to a writer in creating characters which no amount of good reporting could duplicate. I venture to say also that  great fiction illuminates life in a way no other form can do.”

Another thing that impressed me was how much of a foodie Taber was, especially as we tend to think of the 1950s as a grim culinary era in the United States. Taber’s concern with fresh, local food seems amazingly contemporary. “Economics is too complex for me. But I have instincts about supply and demand which I believe in. And I shall always feel a carrot next door is better than a carrot from Ames, Iowa, all things being equal.”

We baby boomers tend to feel sorry for women who came of age before the 1960s, those poor, unliberated things who spent day after frustrating day cooped up in their little houses with their little children, eating Spam sandwiches. While it is true that before the 1960s, the opportunities for women were far more limited than they are now, it is not true that all those pre-1960s women were bubble brains on the verge of a nervous breakdown. And it is arrogant of my generation to think this way. When I read As Always, Julia, the letters between Julia Child and Avis DeVoto, I was struck by what a rich life of the mind these women had. The same was true for Gladys and her friend Jill, and that life of the mind brought a spark to even the most mundane chores, from peeling potatoes to making current jelly. The best thing about the life of the mind is that it can be lived anywhere that there are books and magazines, even on a farm in Connecticut, even in a little house in Winthrop, Maine.

The copy of Stillmeadow Daybook I am reading came from Lithgow Public Library as an interlibrary loan book. However, a quick look on Amazon.com showed me that while Stillmeadow Daybook is no longer in print, it can be purchased used at a reasonable price. I also expect that library sales and second-hand shops might be a good place to find Stillmeadow Daybook as well as any of the other numerous books that Taber wrote.

I am looking forward to reading more of Gladys Taber, and I will certainly be looking for her books at various summer book sales.

Again, many thanks, Nan, for introducing me to Gladys Taber.

 

 

ANDREA’S BRIDAL SHOWER

Herbs on the deck
Herbs on the deck at Joyce's Restaurant

Last Saturday, I helped my daughter Shannon with a bridal shower for her very dear friend Andrea. The shower was held in Hallowell, at Joyce’s Restaurant, upstairs in a long room overlooking the Kennebec River. At one end of the room, there was a grand piano, which nobody played, and at the other end, buffet tables and a bar. In between, tables and chairs for dining. Beyond the buffet tables and bar, there was a small deck, a perfect spot to sip wine and watch the river and admire a lower deck filled with potted herbs.

Joyce’s is a great place for a shower. By the grand piano, there are six or seven funky but comfortable chairs. This is where Andrea sat as she unwrapped presents, and there was plenty of room to make a big circle for other chairs. Andrea got many lovely gifts, and she was appreciative of them all, whether they were large or small. My gift was a Moosewood cookbook and a blue stoneware bowl full of lemon-frosted shortbread. I am, after all, a good eater, and I thought it was appropriate for my gift to literally include food.

Cups and saucers lined up for soup
Cups and saucers lined up for soup

Joyce’s prepared a tasty luncheon, which included a creamy tomato soup with basil. (It was the hit of the shower. My, it was good!) In addition, there were two kinds of sandwiches—chicken curry as well as tomato, pesto, and mozzarella; a salad with mixed greens; a pasta salad; fruit; and cookies for dessert. The service was excellent, too. The woman who waited on us was just the right combination of friendly and efficient. She even cheerfully packaged the leftovers for us, and we felt as though we were in good hands.

I have known Andrea since she was five or six years old. I took care of Andrea when she was in grade school, and Andrea and Shannon have been friends all through the years. Andrea has become an elegant young woman who wouldn’t look out of place in a Fred Astaire movie, and it was both moving and joyful for me to be part of this celebration that will bring her to the next phase of her life. Truly, a wedding shower is a rite of passage, where the next generation takes its place in the continuation of the cycle. I was even more moved when Andrea referred to me as her “third mother,” with her own mom and her future mother-in-law being the other two.

Andrea opening presents
Andrea opening presents

I did manage to slip in a little bread talk with Andrea’s future mother-in-law, who loves to cook. She told me about her own experience with making whole wheat bread, and she confirmed my own hunch about how much whole wheat flour to use—1/3 whole wheat flour and the rest unbleached white flour. It was nice to hear I had it right.

Andrea’s wedding will be in September, and she is marrying a man who has such a talent for woodworking that it goes beyond craft and is firmly in the artisan category. He is also a talented photographer. For her own part, Andrea is an accomplished cook. May they have a long, creative life together.

THE FIRST DELIVERY FROM FARMER KEV

Farmer Kev's vegetablesThis year, we decided to join Farmer Kev’s CSA program. (Farmer Kev—aka Kevin Leavitt—is an extraordinary young farmer who lives in our town.) On Saturday, we received our first delivery. That’s right, Farmer Kev delivers. (We also have an “egg lady” who delivers our eggs. All we need is to find someone who delivers milk, and we’ll be convinced that we’ve zipped back to the 1950s.)

For this first delivery, Farmer Kev gave us two huge bags of lettuce and spinach and some snappy radishes, all packed in a funky wooden crate. We’ll certainly be eating very healthy this week!

Farmer Kev has done something interesting with his invoice. We bought a half share for $200, and along with listing that, he also itemized the spinach, lettuce, and radishes, giving them a market value of $10.75. In my opinion, he went a little low. Two big bags of organic lettuce would certainly go for more than $4. However, it will be interesting to see how the two sides—what we’ve paid vs. what we receive—balance out as the season progresses. If the first week is any indication, then I expect we’ll more than get our money’s worth.

Tonight, we’ll be having a huge Mexican salad for dinner, using the spinach and the lettuce from Farmer Kev’s garden and adding black beans, leftover ground turkey, olives, cheese, and salsa.

I’m hungry for it already.

THE TEMPEST

Yesterday, the storm clouds came in, making the afternoon dark as night. Then the rain came down so hard that it fell in torrents off the roof of the house, and I felt as though I were under a waterfall. In the ditches, the water rushed fast and high, flattening the grass along both sides. In all my years of living on Narrows Pond Road—27 years—never have I seen it rain with such ferocity.

Naturally, we lost our power, and for our supper, my husband, Clif, and I had to go into town for roast beef sandwiches at Pete’s, where the power was on. At home, the power was still out when we went to bed, by torch light, as the British would say, and about 1:30 A.M. I woke up as everything switched to life—the beeping computers, the rumbling refrigerator, the lights that were left on. Oh, happy night! This meant that Clif could have his coffee, toast, and shower before going to work and that I wouldn’t have to scrounge around for a shower at a friend’s house.

This morning, I went to Longfellow’s Greenhouse to buy some perennials and annuals and to replace a cucumber that had decided to wilt. While I was there, I talked to a worker about the storm.

“What a downpour,” she said and then motioned to a man and a woman who were loading flats of tomatoes onto a huge cart. “The have a farm stand, and they lost everything to hail.”

“I’ve never seen anything like it,” I said.

“The world is changing,” she agreed.

“Even though some people don’t want to admit it.”

She nodded. “That’s right.”

Today is cooler and calm. My gardens pulled through without any significant damage. However, I heard from my friend Esther that she had “much plant damage” but that she will wait for a few days before “yanking.”

Summer isn’t even officially here, but the season is sure getting off to a bang. I hope we’ve seen the worst, but I can’t help wondering what’s going to come next.

The patio table and chairs
After the storm—sunny and bright.

JOIE DE VIVRE BY ROBERT ARBOR AND KATHERINE WHITESIDE

On an older post on the blog Letters from a Hill Farm, Nan has reviewed a book called Joie de Vivre: Simple French Style for Everyday Living by Robert Arbor and Katherine Whiteside. Nan read this book as part of a Foodie’s Reading Challenge, which sounds like a lot of fun, and she had many good things to say about Joie de Vivre. So many, in fact, that I will be checking Inter Library Loan to see if any libraries in Maine have a copy of Joie de Vivre.

Here is what appealed to me about Nan’s description of Joie de Vivre—the notion that the good life revolves around family, food, and friends and that to cook you don’t need a big kitchen with granite counter tops and fancy equipment. This is from the book: “It’s not just about cooking, decorating, or entertaining – it’s about enjoying all the small details of domestic life. It’s about making time for family, growing some vegetables in your garden, chatting with the butcher, and cooking for your family and friends.”

According to Nan, the point of the book is that you don’t have to live in France to live this kind of life. You can have it New York City; you can have it in Winthrop, Maine. All you have to do is cook, open up your home, and maybe plant a few herbs and vegetables.

Let’s hear it for this kind of good life, which is available even to those of us who live on a modest budget.

BLACK BEAN BURGERS: A VARIATION ON A THEME

Black bean burgerFor some inexplicable reason, my husband, Clif, and I have been latecomers to bean burgers. Who knows why? Even good eaters get stuck in a rut, and I think that’s where we were when our evening meals revolved around meat. Now that we are mostly vegetarian, our evening meals are centered on vegetables and legumes, and it has forced us to branch out with our eating. This has been a very good thing, and one of the ways we have branched out is with the various bean burgers. While we might have been slow to add them to our food repertoire, we are now making up for lost time. Clif and I have become bean burger enthusiasts, and they have become a regular part of our diet.

A challenge for me, as it is with many recipes, has been to substitute garlic for onion and add other flavorings so that the burger is not boring. (In a recent post, I wrote about the problems my digestive system has with onions and my quest to find flavorful alternatives.) Last night, instead of using a can of spiced black beans, I decided to use some plain black beans that I had cooked, and using Mark Bittman’s bean burger recipe as a guideline, I added various things to pep up the burgers, including garlic, chili powder, and cheddar cheese. I would have loved to add cilantro, but unlike basil, in our supermarkets cilantro is not sold in big bags for a reasonable price. Unless we are having company, I just can’t bring myself to buy those expensive little containers of herbs. So no cilantro, but it would have been a happy addition.

The results? Clif had to talk himself out of having a second burger, and a good thing, too. Otherwise, we wouldn’t have had enough for leftovers, and he certainly didn’t need a second burger. But the larger point is that Clif, who can eat onions, thought these burgers were so good that he wanted seconds. So, success!

As noted in the chickpea burger recipe, one recipe makes four burgers. I cook them all at once, and the beauty of these burgers, whether they are made with chickpeas or black beans, is that they reheat beautifully just the way they are cooked the first time—with a bit of oil in a frying pan.

Our next challenge will be to see how the bean burgers do on the grill. Will they fall apart? How much oil will they need? How long will it take to sizzle them? We are a having a Fourth of July gathering here, and as two of the guests don’t eat meat, I plan to make some of the chickpea patties.

“We’ll need to have a dry run, don’t you think?” I asked Clif.

“Definitely,” he answered.

Next week, then, it will be chickpea burgers on the grill.

In the interim, we have leftover black bean burgers to look forward to.

 

Black Bean Burgers
Makes 4 patties

2 cups of cooked black beans
2 small cloves or 1 large clove of garlic
1 tablespoon of chili powder
1/2 teaspoon of salt
pepper to taste
1/2 cup of cheddar cheese, grated
1/2 cup of rolled oats
1 egg
Oil for frying

In a food processor, combine all the ingredients except the oil. Pulse until the ingredients are mixed but there are still some chunks of bean left. You want a combination of smooth and chunky. If the mixture is too dry, add a little water. (I have not had to do this.) Form the mixture into 4 patties, put on a plate, and chill for an hour or so. This will make the burgers easier to handle.

Heat the oil in a frying pan. When the oil is hot, add the patties and cook for 5 minutes on one side. Flip, and cook for 5 minutes on the other side or until the burger is nicely browned.

Use whatever condiments you would use on a burger. I like dill pickle chips. My husband, Clif, favors jalapeños. Salsa would also be good on black bean burgers. Ketchup. Mayonnaise. There really are no wrong choices.

 

 

 

 

FOOD FOR THE SOUL: BLOOMING IRISES

June is here. That season of irises. How I love them, especially the purple ones. If I had a yard with more sun and less ledge, I would have massive beds of Irises so that our yard would be abloom with them in June. But, I have what I have, and I thank the flower gods that I have at least enough sun and ledge-free soil to have four big bunches of Irises.

Here is one Iris from tight bud to bloom, a span of four days or so.

Iris bud

 

Iris ready to bloom

 

Iris in bloom

 

Ah, Irises! Food for the soul, indeed.

 


 

 

THE ERA OF CHEAP FOOD MAY BE OVER

I just finished reading “A Warming Planet Struggles to Feed Itself” written by Justin Gillis and published in the New York Times on June 4, 2011. The title pretty much gives you the gist of this long but very worthwhile piece. Gillis notes how weather disasters are responsible for failed harvests all across the planet. For example: Floods in the United States, drought in Australia, and extreme heat waves in Europe and Russia. Farmers all over the world, from Mexico to India, are seeing their crops damaged by “emerging pests and diseases and by blasts of heat beyond anything they remember.” Most scientists believe that climate change is, by and large, responsible for this and that climate change is “helping” to destabilize Earth’s food system.

As a result, consumption of wheat, rice, corn, and soybeans—the foods that pretty much feed the world—has outstripped production for most of the past decade. Stockpiles are going down. Prices are going up, pinching those of us in rich countries and bringing hunger to millions of people in poor countries.

According to agricultural experts, in the upcoming decades farmers “will need to withstand whatever climate shocks come their way while roughly doubling the amount of food they produce to meet rising demand.” (The population is projected to reach 10 billion by the end of the century.) At the same time, farmers also need to reduce the environmental damage that can come with farming. To produce more food while causing less environmental damage is a tall order indeed.

While Gillis expresses the hope that we can develop crops to meet the challenges brought by climate change—there is a type of rice that can withstand floods by waiting until the water recedes before germinating—there is no denying that this is a sobering article. Who knows what the eventual outcome will be? None of us can see into the future. Maybe ingenuity, creativity, and innovation will help us get through the approaching era of climate chaos and an ever-increasing population. I sure hope so.

I just wish that the leaders of the world would take this problem more seriously, that they would start addressing the problem right now, this minute, and not delay the way they usually do.

 

LOBSTER SALAD AT ESTHER’S HOUSE

Esther's tableOn Saturday, I went to my friend Esther’s house for lunch. She wouldn’t tell me what she was serving. “It’s a surprise,” she wrote by email early last week.

A surprise! All week long I wondered what the surprise would be. The fish dish for which she is so famous? (Pieces of fried haddock smothered with a cheese sauce.) Sounded very good to me, and I was all set for the fish dish. My only concern was that I would go overboard, the way I so often do, and eat too much. Alas, the pitfalls of being a good eater.

But Esther didn’t serve me her fish dish. Instead, she had prepared lobster salad, a huge glorious bowl full, and the lobster was mixed with a little bit of celery and just enough mayonnaise to hold it together. In other words, exactly the way lobster salad should be made. Now, I love all kinds of fish and seafood, but I must admit that lobster is right at the top. Maybe at the very top.

Lobster salad“It’s a little chilly for lobster salad,” Esther said somewhat apologetically when I arrived, and indeed it was a cool June day, albeit a sunny, clear one.

“It is never too chilly for lobster salad,” I said firmly. “It could be a frigid January day, and lobster salad would be just right.”

Besides, Esther’s cozy kitchen was sunny and warm—the way it always is—and with its large wood table and old chairs, her kitchen is one of the places I love best. All around are pictures of her children and grandchildren, and Esther has decorated with lots of miniature kitchen things—little teapots, little cups, a little sifter. “I love small things,” she said.

We started out with cheese, crackers, wine, and some Mediterranean nibbles. Then came the lobster salad, a huge scoop on a salad of mixed greens, tomatoes, and cucumbers. I don’t think I have ever had so much lobster salad at one time.

“Do you want dressing for the salad?” Esther asked.

“No, thank you,” I replied, not wanting anything to interfere with the taste of the lobster. Simply put, I don’t have lobster enough to be complacent about it.

“Did you buy the lobster meat?” I asked dreamily as I ate.

“No, no,” Esther answered. “I got the lobsters and shelled them myself.

That’s the best way of doing it, but also the messiest. Still, the results are worth it—you get more meat for your bucks.

We had our usual good chat, and I caught up on all things Vassalboro, the town where I grew up and where Esther lives. After lunch, we walked around Esther’s yard so that I could admire her flowers. Admire them I did, as well as take a few pictures. I am as crazy about flowers as I am about food.

For our grand finale, we went to Fashions, a consignment shop in Waterville. I get many of my clothes at Fashions, gently used clothes at prices that can’t be beat. Plus, as I tell myself, when I buy clothes from Fashions, I am doing my bit to recycle and save these clothes from going into the landfill. (As I’ve noted before, how we love to justify.) As usual, I found clothes that I wanted, and I bought a top and some slacks for the princely sum of $15.

All in all, a lovely day with a lovely person.

 

 

CHICKPEA BURGERS

Chickpea burger

I have a culinary problem that causes me much anguish. I have alluded to it in past posts, and the time has come to address it directly. So here it is: My digestive system will not tolerate onions unless they have been cooked to smithereens. And I mean smithereens. In stews or a chili where the onions have been simmered for hours and hours, I seldom have a problem. If the onion is chopped very fine and cooked fairly well and there is not too much of it, I’ll only have slight indigestion. (In such dishes—like the fish chowder at the Congo Church—I will indulge from time to time, knowing I’ll have to hit the baking soda and water as soon as I get home.) But if I eat something that has big chunks of not very well cooked onions, then I know I am headed for trouble—multiple doses of baking soda and water followed by Tagamet. And raw onions? Forget about it.

To say this puts a damper on my cooking and eating is an understatement. Onions provide a flavor and depth that when missing can make a dish seem blah and boring. In addition, it is often difficult when going out to eat to find items on the menu that don’t have onions, and dining at friends’ houses can be downright problematic. I was brought up to eat what was in front of me and to say thank you very much. So what do I do? Confess that I have an onion disability? Stay silent, pray that none of the dishes are laden with raw or lightly-cooked onions, and eat what is served? I have done both, and neither approach seems satisfactory. The first approach seems rude—what I have, after all, is an intolerance not a full-blown allergy—and the second approach can lead to misery, even though my affliction is only an intolerance. I long for a third way, which would be to eat the darned things and to suffer no ill effects. However, at my age, I know this is unlikely and that I have to stiver through as best I can.

This brings me to my own cooking, and, in a round-about way, to a recipe for chickpea burgers. First, and I thank the gods for this on a regular basis, I am able to eat garlic. (Raw garlic can be as problematic as onions, but as long as it is lightly cooked, I am fine.) Second, and this is probably why I love Italian food so much, many dishes, especially pasta, can be made using garlic rather than onion. According to Mark Bittman, there is even a notion among some Italian cooks that no dish should include both onion and garlic. (He does not subscribe to this notion.) Finally, I have come to realize that as long as a dish is flavorful, the lack of onion will not be such a problem.

Obviously, then, garlic is one of my prime substitutions for onion, but there are also other flavorings that will jazz up a meal—fresh herbs and a bit of cheese can really make a difference, and I use both in the following recipe for chickpea burgers. This recipe has been adapted from one of Mark Bittman’s in How to Cook Everything Vegetarian. His recipe called for onion, for which I substituted one clove of garlic. Then, following some of his suggestions for flavoring bean burgers, I added fresh basil and some grated sharp cheddar. The results were all that I could have hoped for—a veggie burger that was full of flavor, so good, in fact, that these burgers will be a regular part of our diet. The garlic, the chickpeas, the basil, and the cheese all come together to produce a terrific Mediterranean taste. Thus far, we have only pan fried the burgers, but we are looking forward to grilling them, too. Another nice feature is that a single recipe makes four patties that can all be cooked at the same time. The leftovers reheat beautifully in the same way they are originally cooked—in a frying pan with a bit of oil.

Before giving this recipe, I want to note that although fresh basil can be expensive, there is no substitute for it. Dried basil just isn’t worth it. At many grocery stores, large packs of fresh basil are available at a fairly reasonable price. The big pack I picked up at Trader Joe’s was about $2.50, and I have seen similar prices at our local Hannaford. And for those who can’t find big packs of basil at a good price, take heart. Summer and farmers’ markets are coming, and for cooks who have a bit of sunny space in their yards, basil can planted in pots as well as in the garden.

Chickpea Burgers
Makes 4 large patties

2 cups of cooked chickpeas
1/2 cup of whole basil leaves
1 clove of garlic
1/2 teaspoon of salt
Pepper to taste
1/2 cup of rolled oats
1 egg
1/2 cup of sharp cheddar, grated
Olive oil for frying

In my above preamble, I forgot to mention how easy it is to make these burgers. You do need a food processor, which, in my opinion, is an indispensable piece of equipment in a home cook’s kitchen. Food processors don’t even have to be expensive to work well. Ours was cheap, and we have gotten many years of use out of it.  (And it’s still going strong.)

Put all ingredients, except for the oil, in a food processor. You don’t have to chop the basil or the garlic. The food processor will take care of that for you. (You do, of course, have to grate the cheese before adding it to the food processor.) Pulse this mixture until it is fairly well chopped and combined but not totally smooth. There should be rough chunks in the mixture. If the mixture seems too dry, add a bit of water. (I haven’t had to do this.)

Form the mixture into four patties, and chill for an hour in the refrigerator if you have time. Even after chilling, they will be a little crumbly, but they will hold together in the pan. Heat the oil in the frying pan, and when it is hot, add the patties, cooking on one side for five minutes. Flip carefully, and cook on the other side until brown and crispy, about five minutes, maybe a little less if the pan is hot.

Serve on a bun, and any of the toppings you would use on a meat burger would be good on this one as well. Lettuce, tomato, ketchup, mustard, mayonnaise, and, yes, even a slice of onion if you don’t have a touchy digestive system.




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