Celebrating Shannon’s Birthday at Petite Jacqueline

img_3334Yesterday I headed to the big city, to Portland, the Babylon of Maine, to celebrate my daughter Shannon’s birthday. As is our tradition, our friend Kate Johnson joined us for lunch. We all look forward to these thrice-yearly gatherings, where the birthday girl gets to select the restaurant. This year, Shannon chose Petite Jacqueline, a restaurant I had never been to, and it had such good food at such reasonable prices that I am tempted to choose it when we celebrate my birthday in September.

With its yellow walls and banquette seating, Petite Jacqueline really does have some of the feel of a French bistro. (There are tables and chairs as well.) On its website, Petite Jacqueline bills itself as serving comfort food—and this is certainly the case—Hamburgers are on the menu as well as mouth-watering, hand-cut fries. The food is neither fussy nor pretentious, but at the same time, there is a certain elegance to it. This combination of simple but good paired with elegance gives the restaurant a comfortable feel. There is nothing stuffy about Petite Jacqueline, and for a relatively small restaurant, there is a surprising amount of elbow-room, always a plus for me as I hate being crowded.

The birthday girl
The birthday girl

A friendly but intense server told us about the specials, one of which was English pea soup. Being Franco-American, I am very familiar with pea soup, but I had never heard of English pea soup, and it seemed a little odd for a French-style bistro to be serving English pea soup. On the other hand, maybe it was done in the spirit of multiculturalism, which I am always in favor of.

“What is the difference between French pea soup and English pea soup?” I asked the server.

“I don’t know,” he admitted.

So I decided to order the soup, and as soon as the server brought it to me, I could immediately see the difference. This English pea soup was bright green and puréed. French pea soup, at least the one I am used to, is made with dried split peas and ham or salt pork. It is yellow and thick with texture, almost like a porridge, and the ham gives it a smoky taste. This green pea soup, on the other hand, had a fresh—one might even call it green—taste with an onion undertone. I ate every bit of it and could have eaten more.

English pea soup
English pea soup

Shannon ordered the hamburger, which came with those delectable fries, and Kate got the sandwich au fromage, which featured brie and apricot preserves and came with a side salad. Both said their meals were delicious.

Along with buying the birthday girl lunch, we like to give presents, and Kate brought Shannon The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook. (If you are unfamiliar with this terrific blog, then don’t hesitate to check it out.) Shannon has been wanting the cookbook for sometime, but Kate, who lives out of state, did not know this. Perhaps, I joked, Kate received psychic emanations from Shannon: “I want the Smitten Kitchen Cookbook.”

Whatever the case, Shannon was very pleased with the book, and we were all very pleased with our meals at Petite Jacqueline.

Kate’s birthday is next, and I can’t wait to see which restaurant she will choose.

Wherever we go, we always bring our good appetites and our bonhomie.

The gang of three, with Kate being a little squeezed out
The gang of three, with Kate being a little squeezed out

 

A Walk with Laura McCandlish—Part I: Remembering Vielleux’s Market

Laura McCandlish
Laura McCandlish

At a recent foodie gathering in Brunswick, I met Laura McCandlish, a journalist who writes about food and who has worked for Public Radio. (She also has a very snappy blog called BalitmOregon to Maine.) When Laura found out I was a fifth-generation Franco-American, she asked if she could interview me for an audio documentary contest she plans on entering. As I was born in Waterville—which has a big Franco-American population—Laura suggested we meet there so I could show her the Franco section of town—the South End. I agreed, but I did warn her that the South End wasn’t the same as when I was a child. However, Laura wanted to go there anyway so that I could reminisce, and to the South End we went.

For readers unfamiliar with Maine’s history, here’s an extremely brief account of Franco-Americans in Maine. In the 1800s, during the Industrial Revolution, New England factory representatives went to Quebec to seek mill workers, and they were extremely successful. Workers, and eventually their large extended families, came in bunches, hoping to do what immigrants have always done—make better lives for themselves and their families, who were extremely poor. Many French Canadians settled in Maine, where factories once abounded, and to this day, Waterville’s Franco-American population stands at about 40 percent. (French Canadians also settled in northern Maine, but that is a different story, and one I won’t go into here.)

For French Canadians who came to work in Maine factories, there is unfortunately a chronicle of discrimination, intimidation (the Klan was huge in Maine, and they marched against Catholics and Franco-Americans), language suppression (French was actually outlawed), and in Waterville, at least, voter suppression. Franco-Americans were second-class citizens, and they certainly knew this was the case. However, times change, situations improve, and the grip of the dominant culture relaxes.

Laura was interested in all of this, but as food is one of her central concerns, she also wanted some information about Franco food. I took her to the South End’s Shewin Street, once home to Vielleux’s Market, the small grocery store where my parents did all their grocery shopping. The market is gone now, as are all the tenement buildings that were around it, and although there is a green park (or ball field) down the hill from where Vielleux’s once stood, the place has a lonely, blasted look, quite different from the vibrant neighborhood I remember.

Memory, I realize, can be tricky and unreliable, but here is what I remember of Vielleux’s Market. Somehow, it is always summer, and it has just rained. On the sidewalk, there is a line of wooden crates filled with fruit—cantaloup, peaches, bananas—and their scent mingles with the smell of the wet pavement. The market is a swirl of people: dusty-legged children in brown shorts run in for Popsicles and candy; skinny women, with their dark hair in pin curls, come for Pepsi and cigarettes, and older women, large and serene in their bright mumus, shop for bread and bologna. Lee, the owner of the market, is in back at the meat counter, and my father is ordering our meat for the week. As my father orders, he munches an uncooked hot dog that Lee has given him, and they talk and talk as Lee slices meat and wraps it in white paper. In the front, neat and tidy, is Christine, the cashier. My mother calls out the prices of the food she’s buying, and Christine rings in the prices. The small counter is overflowing with food. My parents were ardent grocery shoppers, and I come by my good eater moniker quite naturally. Both parents grew up in poverty, and food meant a lot to them. Neither of them ever starved, but they never had quite as much to eat as they wanted or exactly what they would have liked.

The market was small and the variety was basic. There was no fresh basil or parsley. Cilantro? What was that? There were carrots, potatoes, celery, and apples. Cereal, flour, baking powder, and sugar. Cream horns, bread, and turnovers. Dried spaghetti and macaroni. And Spam, Spam, Spam. As well as other staples, of course.

Some of what I’ve written in this post I related to Laura, and some of it I have expanded on here. I am much better at expressing myself in writing than through conversation. (Laura, if you are reading this, then feel free to use whatever you want.)

In an upcoming post I’ll address a question I have asked many times. That is, where are all the cafés serving tortière pies? And what, exactly, is Franco food?

 

 

Carol’s Anything Soup

img_3291We are a family that loves soup. We can happily eat it one, two, three, even four nights a week, and a good thing, too, as we live in a state where it is cool enough 9 months of the year to eat soup. (If June is rainy, the way it often is, make that 10 months.) Soup also pairs very well with my cooking style, which tends to be a bit improvisational at times. I am happiest when I can tinker with a dish and add a little of this and a little of that as well as make some substitutions based on what I have in my larder. Because I have been cooking for so many years, the results are at the very least edible, and sometimes they are even “pretty darned good,” to quote my Yankee husband, Clif.

Therefore, when my cousin Carol recently told me about her Anything Soup, I was extremely interested. It’s a squash-based soup made with onions and chicken broth, and from there the variations are many. Carol agreed to email me her instructions so that I could post them on this blog. Carol wrote, “In a 2 qt saucepan sauté 1 medium onion, 2 stalks of celery and 2 sliced carrots until celery and onions are softened. Add one can chicken broth, 1/2 cup cooked and mashed buttercup squash and 3/4 to 1 cup of vegetable pasta or vegetable spaghetti broken into smaller pieces. Salt and pepper to taste. Cover and cook until pasta is done. This is the base of the soup. I have changed it up by adding one or all of the following when I add the pasta. You could add any vegetable you like. Great way to use up leftovers.

2 Tbsp tomato paste
1/2 cup frozen chopped spinach
1/2 cup shredded cabbage
1/2 cup cooked turnip
1/2 cup black beans
leftover cooked chicken”

Yes, indeed, and in my freezer I had 2 cups of cooked squash, the last from Farmer Kev’s garden. Because I had more squash than the recipe called for, I decided to increase the other ingredients so that we would have even more soup. I liked the idea of black beans, and as I had plenty of dried beans waiting to be soaked and cooked, I decided to go with them. I also had some kielbasa—bought on sale—in the freezer, and I decided to go with that as well.

When Carol and I had talked about the soup, she had mentioned that the tomato paste gave the soup a bit of an Italian taste. Well, I thought, why not go one step further and add some oregano? And how about some garlic, too? (I wasn’t kidding when I said I like to improvise.)

Readers, the results were so good that even though I have only made it once, this is one of my favorite soups. In fact, it’s tasty enough to buy fresh squash at the supermarket especially to go in this soup, and I’m tempted to try canned squash to see how it will turn out. The soup is slightly sweet, but not too sweet. It has a rich, full flavor, and it is thick enough to be called a stew. It is smooth and nourishing, just the thing for the end of a busy day full of chores and meetings.

Thank you, Carol!

[amd-zlrecipe-recipe:20]

 

April Scenes from the Backyard

Well, it doesn’t exactly look like spring at the little house in the big woods, and I certainly wouldn’t say the backyard is at its beautiful best, but the snow is nearly gone. Spring is coming, and I’m itching for the mud to dry so that I can do some yard work, which somehow always seems so much better than indoor work. There’s just something about being outside. Soon, soon…

Liam, racing around the patio, which is free of snow.
Liam, racing around the patio, which is free of snow.
A chickadee at the feeder
A chickadee at the feeder
Liam, snow dog of the north, on one of the last patches of snow in the backyard
Liam, snow dog of the north, on one of the last patches of snow in the backyard
First time on the line this year.
First time on the line this year.

 

 

 

Enjoying the Usual Days of Work Around the Home

IMG_2959Not long ago, I said to my husband, Clif, “I have a new hobby.”

“Oh?”

“I like to go in the backyard and collect sticks and branches. The sticks I can break by hand and use for kindling. With the branches, I use the little hand saw. But they’re good for the furnace, too.”

Clif gave me a look suggesting that even though we have been married for 36 years, I still have the ability to surprise him. But all he said was “Well, go for it.”

And so I have. Today, I will be recycling our Christmas tree, stripping the branches and sawing the trunk into smaller logs. “They’ll be good for the fire pit,” Clif had to admit.

Scavenging the woods and backyard for twigs and branches might sound like a weird kind of hobby, but I am the sort of person who enjoys puttering around the home—cooking, yard work, tidying, cleaning—all right, maybe cleaning not so much. Unlike work that is done for others, however necessary or profitable it might be, work done for the home just has a different feel. It’s more personal and more direct, done for the family or for oneself. Somehow that makes all the difference. Simply put, for me it is more satisfying to work for myself than it is to work for others, and I find any work that bolsters the home or the family to be very rewarding.

I realize there is much work that must be done outside the house, and indeed I do my fair share of volunteering at the town library and food pantry. I realize that not everyone is in a position to spend their days at home. Every household needs money. Finally, I realize not everyone has the temperament to enjoy the usual days of work around the home. But I do, and I count myself as one of the lucky ones who not only enjoys work around the home but who also has the luxury of staying home and doing that work.

Times change, as they must, and women are no longer required to stay home, as they shouldn’t be. However, I can’t help but feel that people—men as well as women—who enjoy the little things, the puttering—the work that goes toward making a house a home—have a better shot at a life that is not only full of contentment but one that is rich as well.

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Spring Brunch and Walks in the Woods

Last weekend, spring showed more of its lovely face. Although there was still snow in the woods, the weather was mild, and the water was running.

Spring rush
Spring rush

On both Saturday and Sunday we went for a walk in the woods to a nearby camp where children come in the summer. Our dog, Liam, can run free, and there are lots of enticing scents for him to sniff. On Saturday, we came upon turkeys, and although Liam wanted to chase them, he was good at coming back when he was called.

Turkey tracks and dog prints
Turkey tracks and dog prints

At the camp, there is a peace trail, with painted rocks lining the trail.

May peace prevail
May peace prevail

But what I especially love are bare branches against a bright blue sky.

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On Sunday, our daughter Shannon, her husband, Mike, and their dog, Holly, came for brunch and a walk. After a meal of pancakes, apple sauce made with Maine apples, French donuts, and home fries, we headed into the woods to burn off some of that meal.

Into the woods
Into the woods

Holly, the puppy, had an especially good time. She ran and ran for the sheer joy of it, and I remember doing the same thing when I was a child. “Let’s run!” I’d say to my friends, and off we’d go, as fast as we could, until we could run no more.

Holly at rest
Holly at rest

Shannon, Mike, and Holly will be back at the end of the month. The snow will be gone and most of the mud should be dried by then. We’ll head back into the woods, along the wooded path, where barred owls call to each other, back and forth, and the water rushes and dogs can run.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Food and Memory—Egg Salad Sandwiches, Chips, and Pepsi

IMG_3237Not long ago, at a foodie meeting I went to in Brunswick, a woman I met—Laura—spoke passionately about how food was so central to everyone’s life and how food nourished more than the body. I found myself nodding in agreement, and my first thoughts were of the writer Proust, whose plain little cookie—the madeleine—triggered a cascade of memories.  That a cookie could bring forth such a rush of emotions shows that food is as symbolic as it is real, feeding a person on more than one level.

Well, Proust had his madeleine, and I have my egg salad sandwich, always served with chips and Pepsi. Oddly enough, I am not especially fond of chips. I don’t dislike them, but I’m seldom inclined to eat half a bag at a time, the way my husband, Clif, does. Nevertheless, when I have egg salad sandwiches, I always want chips. And Pepsi.

This goes back to my childhood, to the times my family would visit my Uncle Leo, my Aunt Barney, and my cousins Linda and Carol. They lived in Norridgewock, and in those long-ago days when traveling by car was less common, the trip to their house felt like a real event.

In my memory, which admittedly could be faulty, we usually went on a Sunday, after mass and after dinner, which was at noon. I will pinpoint my memories even further. I am about 8, my brother, Steve, is just a baby. The ride seems long to me, but I don’t care. We are on the way to Norridgewock, perhaps 40 minutes away from our house in Vassalboro.

My aunt and uncle’s house was just as clean and as gleaming as our own house. As a rule, Franco-Americans have a passion for cleanliness that borders on obsession, and if they didn’t also have a balancing passion for fun, then they would be a real drag as an ethnic group.

If the weather was good, we would go for a walk in the pine grove behind their house. If the weather was bad, Carol and I would play with her toys while the adults chatted. Linda, who is a few years older than Carol and I, mostly stayed with the adults. Then came the magic hour, supper time, around 5:00, with everyone grouped around the small table in the kitchen. Was Steve in a high chair? I don’t remember. Unlike the taciturn Yankees, Franco-Americans are a chatty ethnic group, so there was always a lot of talking. And then, of course, along with the talking and the fellowship of the family being together, there were the egg salad sandwiches and chips and Pepsi—everything so entwined that it cannot be separated.

My brother also has fond memories of these egg-salad suppers, so I am sure the tradition carried through long after he had grown from a baby to a toddler to a little boy.

Not long ago, when I met Carol and Linda for breakfast in Waterville, I mentioned egg salad sandwiches and family suppers and what good memories I have of them.

Carol said, “Neither of our families were large, so when we got together, it seemed as though we were a big family.”

She is right, and, as a bonus, our families got along really well.

But along with the kinship, egg salad—humble, hearty, and oh so good—was the food that bound us together.

 

McGee Waits for Spring

IMG_3228It seems I am not the only one waiting for spring in central Maine. McGee is waiting, too—very patiently—for the planting to begin in the Inch-By-Inch Garden at the grade school in town. Not for a while, McGee. (I don’t know what his real name is or whether he even has a name, but I’ve dubbed him McGee.)

In the meantime, today—as spring is taking its time to come—the crockpot has white beans simmering along with some chicken bones, and I’m thinking about how food is more than nourishment for the body. If the white bean dish is tasty, then I’ll post the recipe some time this week. I also plan on writing about food and memory.

McGee, on the other hand, doesn’t care about any of those things. He’s just ready for spring.

 

Late March in Pondtown

IMG_3219March in Maine is not the most beautiful time of year. The snow is heavy and gray, and there is so much mud that it sometimes seems as though it is going to pull you down to some dark, unknown kingdom. In fact, last year on a walk, I had to help a young boy get his boot out of the mud at the edge of his driveway. He couldn’t pull it out by himself, and while he hopped on one foot, trying to keep his stocking foot from touching the dirty ground, I pulled and pulled and with great effort yanked the boot from the mud.

However, I live in a pondtown, where there are so many lakes, streams, and ponds that it sometimes seems as though Winthrop is an island. And where there is water, there is beauty. Even in March.

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Maine Maple Sunday 2013—March 24th

IMG_3165This Sunday is Maine Maple Sunday, and as far as I am concerned, any day that celebrates maple syrup is a great day. This year, unlike last year, promises to be a good year for maple syrup—plenty of warm but not too warm days and cold nights. From Maine Public Broadcasting, I learned that Native Americans taught European settles how to boil sap and make syrup. Thank you, thank you, Native Americans! I had never given the origins of maple syrup much thought, but it makes sense that the Native Americans would have come up with the idea many, many years before the Europeans arrived.

On Maine Maple Sunday, Clif and I plan on doing our bit to celebrate this sweet substance. For breakfast, there will be either pancakes or French toast served with plenty of maple syrup. I’ll be making some homemade vanilla ice cream so that later in the day we can have ice cream with maple syrup and roasted walnuts for dessert. Best of all, in the afternoon, we’ll be meeting with our friends Chuck and Erma, who will be bringing some of their own maple syrup for us.

It promises to be a very sweet day.

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