All posts by Clif Graves

A BRAND NEW SIGN AT THE FLAKY TART

The new sign at the Flaky Tart
The new sign at The Flaky Tart

Today, I did something I have never done on December 1—I went for a bike ride. After last week’s snowstorm, I was sure there would be no biking on the road until next spring. Both Clif’s bike and my bike went down cellar, as we Mainers put it, and I had resigned myself to the exercise bike. But what a difference a week can make. Even in our shady yard, the snow is nearly gone, and all the roads are bare and clear. As soon as I discovered the temperature was relatively mild and the sun was shining, I decided to go for a ride.

With great effort, I hauled the bike out of the cellar via the bulkhead, and off I went, feeling as giddy as a school girl playing hooky. Could I really be riding my bike on the road on December 1? It seemed that I was. I looped through town, stopping to admire the brand new sign at The Flaky Tart. What a beauty! The sign and the shop really spiff up downtown Winthrop. To celebrate the new sign, I went in, bought a whoopie pie for Clif, and chatted with Kim, one of the owners.

Charles M. Bailey Public Library
Charles M. Bailey Public Library

On I went, past the library, and I decided to take a picture for the blog. Richard, the director, saw me taking pictures, and even though the library was closed, he told me to come in to pick up some books I had ordered through interlibrary loan. In the library, we chatted a bit about politics, wood stoves (this is Maine, after all), and how, at the Red Barn in Augusta, the owner actually pays her employees a living wage. (Richard once worked there.) Maybe that’s why the atmosphere is always so upbeat at the Red Barn. Happy employees bring about good Karma. Clif and I have always loved going to the Red Barn, and now that I know how well the employees are treated, we will make a special effort to support this restaurant.

Then came the ride by the lake, and it was a brisk one. How odd it seemed to be riding with the sun so low in the sky. There was a slight wind, and Maranacook Lake was choppy and deep blue.

Blue Maranacook
Blue Maranacook

When I got home, I was cold but invigorated, and my noontime green tea with honey tasted especially good.

My bike will not be going down cellar until the next snowstorm comes. I will be putting it in our little shed, where I can easily get it out. And if tomorrow is nice, I’ll be back on the road.

PICKLE AND CHEESE SANDWICHES AT CRESCENT BEACH

Seagulls on a small isladOn Sunday, my husband, Clif, and I drove to Portland so that we could take our daughter Dee to the bus station for her return trip to New York City. Because the day was relatively warm—almost fifty degrees, albeit somewhat overcast—we decide to head to Crescent Beach in Cape Elizabeth after we dropped Dee off. We packed a thermos of tea as well as pickle and cheese sandwiches on homemade bread for a nice little picnic in the car. Our dog, Liam, loves the beach, and we naturally brought him along.

Somehow, Sunday was the kind of gray day at the ocean that is especially beautiful, where there is a slight misty fog in the background but everything in the foreground is sharply defined. We parked the car at Kettle Cove in a spot where we could watch the ocean as we ate, saving bits of sandwich for Liam.

The water was choppy, and gray clouds met the gray sea. Not far from shore, seagulls perched on a small rock island. Farther out was another island with an outline of “pointed firs.” The tide was high, making the beach small, and near the shore, two divers surfaced near a red flag with a white diagonal slash.

The beach was not crowded, but it was not empty, either. Clif, Liam, and I walked the length of the beach, a mile out and a mile back. We went over rocks and sand and seaweed and rivulets flowing out to the sea. I found a piece of beach glass. The weather was warm enough so that we could tuck our gloves into our pockets.

When we got back to the car, Liam settled in the back. Clif and I had another cup of tea from the thermos, and we contentedly watched the ocean as we drank.

Next time we’ll bring some ginger cookies to go with the tea.

Crescent beach

 

 

THANKSGIVING IN SOPO

Cranberry sauceSomehow, despite the heavy snow in central Maine on Wednesday, everything went just the way it should on Thanksgiving day. Shoveling the wet snow was arduous, but Clif and I got it done without collapsing. We didn’t lose our power, and our daughter Dee made it to Maine from New York with nary a delay.

Thanksgiving Day itself was bright and sunny, and to South Portland (SoPo) we went, to our daughter Shannon and her husband, Mike’s, house where, for the first time, they hosted Thanksgiving dinner. Into our little Honda Fit we packed green bean casserole, pumpkin bread, and frozen gravy, made several days earlier. (I wrote about the gravy in a previous post and wondered if I had made it too thick.) Our dog, Liam, came along as did Mike’s mother, Gail, who added an apple pie and a chocolate cream pie to the bounty going to SoPo.

Shannon and Mike rent an apartment in a lovely old house, and they have the whole first floor, complete with a dining room and China closet. As soon as we walked in, we were met by the wonderful smell of turkey and herbs. The buffet in the kitchen was ready for the food, and the dining room table looked so pretty with its fall place mats and napkins.

The Buffet

The dining room table

I know this is going to fall under the category of braggy old Mom, but Shannon and Mike did a bang-up job of cooking their first Thanksgiving dinner. The turkey was delicious, and ditto for the stuffing. The sweet potato casserole was creamy, and Shannon’s homemade yeast rolls, made ahead of time, frozen, and cooked right before the dinner, were an absolute delight. The cherry on the sundae, so to speak, was when Shannon announced, “90 percent of this dinner is local, and at least half is organic.” Words to make a foodie mother proud.

As for the gravy…it was exactly the right thickness for my husband, Clif, who likes it very thick indeed, and it was not too thick for the rest of us. (The gravy thickened during the freezing process.) For those who would like a thinner gravy, I would suggest 8 tablespoons of fat and 8 tablespoons of flour, rather than 10.  As I wrote in that previous post, this really is an exceptionally good gravy, time consuming but well worth the effort for one (or perhaps even two) special days a year.

As we gathered around the table, we toasted Shannon and Mike and their first Thanksgiving dinner. We also toasted the dedicated volunteers at the Winthrop Food Pantry who braved the extremely slippery roads on Wednesday so that they could open the food pantry for eleven families who were in need of food.

Truly, it was one of those Thanksgivings that will stand out in our memories.

Addendum: Braggy old mom got the numbers wrong. It was 90 percent organic and 50 percent local. Great numbers however you look at it!

GIVING THANKS

Yesterday, despite the heavy March-like snow, we did not lose our power and our New York daughter made it to Maine without incident. I was able to make pumpkin bread and green bean casserole to bring to my daughter Shannon’s home for Thanksgiving.

And yesterday, despite the slippery roads, three dedicated food pantry volunteers—JoEllen Cottrell, Mike Sienko, and Charlie Gove—opened the Winthrop Food Pantry. A food truck from the Good Shepherd Food Bank was supposed to come to Winthrop with boxes of food, but because of the bad weather, they canceled. JoEllen, the food pantry’s executive director, was concerned that there might be people who were counting on that food, and therefore she decided to open the food pantry, even though the weather was bad.

It turns out her concern was not misplaced. Eleven families came to the pantry. In the past, when the weather has been bad, most food pantry recipients have waited until the following week to come to the food pantry. (We are open only on Thursday.) It’s a sign of these hard times that so many people came out in a storm so that they could get food.

What I want to say is this: Charlie, JoEllen, and Mike, you make the world a better place. I am both inspired by and thankful for the example you set, not only for me but for the rest of the community as well.

 

A THANKSGIVING MESSAGE: USE THOSE LEFTOVERS

The snow has come as predicted, and suddenly it looks like winter. My husband, Clif, and I will have plenty of shoveling to do as we shovel everything by hand. Nature’s gym, as we like to say. The dog will be in snow-dog heaven. He likes nothing better than to leap at the snow as we shovel, and by the evening, even his Sheltie energy will be spent.

So far, we still have power, and we are hoping for the best. But we are prepared. Clif has started a fire in the wood furnace, we have plenty of water set aside, and we bought extra batteries for the portable radio. We’ve even downloaded an audio library book—The 13 1/2 Lives of Captain Bluebear—on Clif’s tablet so that we can listen to it tonight if the power is out. Squinting to read by lantern light has become too arduous for these old eyes. With the audio book, I can listen and knit. Clif and I are thinking that even when there is no threat of a power outage we might start listening to audio books on his tablet as a pleasant way to spend the long, dark evenings of winter.

This morning, in the New York Times, I came across a piece by Tamar Adler that should be of interest to everyone. It’s called “Thanksgiving Thrift: The Holiday as a Model for Sustainable Cooking.” Adler’s basic premise is that we should cook like it’s Thanksgiving all year round, not so much in terms of amounts but rather in the way we delight in using and eating all the leftovers. Not only would cooking this way be thrifty, but it would also a real time saver as we wouldn’t have to come up with a new meal every single night.

Hear, hear! Yesterday, I wrote about making gravy. What I didn’t write about is what I did with the stewed meat from the turkey legs and the leftover stock. Some of the turkey was put in the refrigerator, and for two nights we had a meal of shredded turkey in barbecue sauce over rice. The rest of the turkey was tucked in the freezer, as was the stock, and with them I am planning to make a turkey and rice casserole with mushrooms and peas. I was hoping to use sage from an outside pot, but I think the snow has dashed my hopes of doing that.

Adler has written a book called An Everlasting Meal: Cooking with Economy and Grace, which I have just ordered through interlibrary loan. Although I try very hard to make good use of our food, I am always keen to learn new tips and techniques. Also, sometimes things slip by, and I’m hoping An Everlasting Meal will inspire to me to be even more vigilant.

Now, on to this snowy day!

 

THANKSGIVING PREPARATIONS

For the first time in a very long while, my husband, Clif, and I will not be hosting Thanksgiving dinner at our home. In fact, I can’t really remember how long it’s been since we went out for Thanksgiving, but my guess is that it has been 20 years, maybe even longer. But this year our daughter Shannon and her husband, Mike, have invited the family to their place, and so to SoPo we will go, with our dog, Liam.

Naturally, I am still cooking. I will be making green bean casserole—my recipe does not call for cream of mushroom soup or canned fried onions. I will be making pumpkin bread. I have already made the gravy, and it is tucked safely in the freezer.

Making gravy ahead of time is a curious combination of great effort and less stress. I use Julia Moskin’s recipe from the New York Times, and despite one criticism that I have, it is a terrific recipe. Basically, you buy 6 pounds of turkey legs or thighs and pretend you are making a soup. First you roast the turkey for a couple of hours, and then you make a stock where you let the turkey simmer in water for six hours. In between there is deglazing, chilling, and skimming of cooled fat, which basically means this gravy is a two-day event. But here’s the thing: This is the most delicious gravy I have ever—and I mean ever—tasted, and it can be made up to a month ahead of time, frozen, and then thawed for the big day.

Those who have hosted Thanksgiving dinner will immediately grasp the benefits of this gravy. No frantic last minute preparations while everyone is waiting, where you often get a gravy that’s not very flavorful and  might be too fatty, too thick, or too thin. I will admit it. I have never made a very good gravy on Thanksgiving Day.

So despite the rigmarole involved with Moskin’s recipe, it is very much worth making. Thanksgiving comes but once a year, and while the whole process might take two days, most of it is not hands-on time. My one criticism of the recipe involves the ratio of stock to butter and flour. Moskin tells you to use 3 quarts of stock, which by my reckoning is 12 cups, and a roux of 12 tablespoons butter/turkey fat and 12 tablespoons of flour.

First of all, I never get 3 quarts of stock. This year I got 2 quarts, and this is pretty usual for me. (Perhaps I don’t add enough water to the turkey during its simmer time?) But this is somewhat irrelevant because even with 2 quarts of stock, the 12 tablespoons of roux is not enough to thicken the gravy to our liking.

I know. This sounds like an astonishing amount of fat to use, but consider the average white sauce, where the ratio is often 2 cups (half a quart) of milk to 4 tablespoons of butter and flour. While this white sauce might be a bit thicker than you would want for a gravy, it is not very much thicker. Especially not for someone like Clif, who likes soups, sauces, and gravies to be very thick.

So here is what I did this year. I used 10 tablespoons of fat—a combination of turkey fat and butter—and 10 tablespoons of flour to one quart of stock. The gravy I got was not overly thick, and not surprisingly, Clif’s comment was that even a little thicker would have been good. But the taste was utterly delicious, and I left the gravy as is with the 10 tablespoons of fat and flour. On Thursday we shall see how it thaws and heats. Will the gravy be too thick? Too thin?

I’ll keep you posted.

In the meantime, we wait for a wet, nasty snow storm forecasted by eager meteorologists. Will our daughter Dee make it north from New York? Will we lose our power, and if so, for how long?

Again, I’ll keep you posted.

A TIME TO BE THANKFUL BUT NOT SMUG

As austere November winds its way down to Thanksgiving, and the days grow ever shorter, people all over the country are bustling to get ready for Thanksgiving, and tomorrow, I will write about my Thanksgiving preparations. During this busy season, some of us even find time to give thanks for what we have. Despite the tough economic times, there is much to be thankful for. This country does not experience mass starvation and famine, as other countries do, and usually even the poorest of us live in a place that has a toilet and running water and electricity. Although our social services could be greatly improved, we do have them, and people are not completely on their own during hard times.

That is the good news for the country at large. Here is the not-so-good news for Maine in specific. In their paper “Hunger in Maine,” Donna Yellen, Mark Swann, and Elana Schmidt cite statistics taken from the U.S. Department of Agriculture. “Maine is  second in the nation for very low food security and ninth for food insecurity….The USDA definition for very low food security is missing multiple meals during an extended period of time or eating food that is inappropriate for that meal. Food insecurity is defined as the consistent worry about having enough income to pay for household food needs and if not, how to provide food for their family.” Yellen, Swann, and Schmidt go on to note that our neighbor to the south, New Hampshire, “has the lowest rates of hunger in the nation,” and they are somewhat puzzled as to why this should be the case.

To really explore the differences between Maine and New Hampshire would take research, time, and analysis that go well beyond the scope of this post. However, my quick take is that Maine simply does not have enough jobs that pay well enough to easily support families and individuals. Once upon a time, when the great factories were running, it was possible for everyday people to earn enough money to have a comfortable life. Not lavish, but comfortable. Now, for the most part, the great factories are still, either abandoned as ruins or converted into shops, offices, and apartments. What has replaced the factories? According to Down East magazine, retail stores such as Wal-Mart and Target are now the major employers in Maine, and except for a few management jobs at the top, these stores do not pay a living wage nor do they provide much in the way of benefits. In the meantime, housing prices have risen as have the costs of fuel, food, and education.

New Hampshire, on the other hand, is close enough to Massachusetts to benefit from that state’s tech industries. A sort of trickle-up effect, as it were. Again, this is just a quick take on a subject that certainly deserves a closer look.

Whatever the reason for the disparity in income between Maine and New Hampshire, in this time of cold and dark, I would encourage Maine readers (and indeed all readers) to think of those who have less than they do and to perhaps make a donation of money or food to their local food pantry.

SOUP BUT NO SANDWICH AT THE FLAKY TART

Yesterday, disaster struck at the Flaky Tart in Winthrop—at noon there were no triple-decker bacon, egg, lettuce, and tomato half-sandwiches with tarragon mayonnaise. The reason? The Tart’s supplier, who was supposed to come early in the morning, hadn’t show up. This was a legitimate enough reason, but still, as the saying goes, I was cast down. All morning long, I had been looking forward to that sandwich with its homemade bread, crispy bacon, and sliced hard-cooked eggs. The tarragon mayonnaise, applied with a light touch, brings it all together.

After the disappointing news, I was faced with the question, what to eat? The chicken tarragon salad on a croissant tempted me, but I knew it would be too fattening for a noncheat day. (I promise there will be more about cheat days in an upcoming post.) Ditto for the quiche. So that left the minestrone soup, and I ordered a big, steaming cup chock full of vegetables and just the right amount of pasta and grated cheese.

I won’t lie. The soup wasn’t as good as those bacon triple-deckers of which I’ve become so fond that I daydream about them in odd moments, but the soup held its own. With its flavorful, tomato-based broth, it was both spicy and soothing.

As I ate, I sat at one of the tall tables by the window. Patrice Putman, who belongs to my book group, came for lunch, and we chatted a bit about our current book—The Immortal Life of Henrietta Lacks. Patrice left, and outside, a man in an electric wheel chair rolled by the window. Across the street, two workers wearing hard hats paused from their labor. A woman with a big, pink plastic case hurried across the street to Potato, a store that features Maine-Made crafts, and I wondered if she was bringing something for the shop to sell.

In between eating and watching the street, I read a piece by Calvin Trillin in the current issue of the New Yorker, which just happens to be the food issue. As always, with his witty, ironic humor Trillin made me laugh out loud as he recounted his rather limited cooking repertoire.  “Estimates have ranged from three to eight [dishes],” Trillin writes, and he only cooks them when he is at his summer home in Nova Scotia. One of the dishes from Trillin’s rather limited range includes the wonderful scallops found off the coast of Nova Scotia. I am guessing they are similar to the scallops served in Prince Edward Island, not so very far away. It’s been over 20 years since I’ve tasted them, but, quite simply, they are unforgettable. In size they are somewhere between a bay scallop and a sea scallop. In taste, they are incomparably sweet and tender. Maine might have its lobsters, but our scallops don’t come anywhere near to those Maritime scallops.

By the time I was ready to leave the Flaky Tart, the soup and Calvin Trillin had improved my mood, which for various reasons that had nothing to with the bacon triple decker, had been as gray as the November sky. I was ready for a bike ride and to face the rest of the day.

A FOOD PANTRY TABLE AT THE FRIENDS ALTERNATIVE CRAFT FAIR

JoEllen Cottrell at the Friends Alternative Craft Fair
JoEllen Cottrell at the Friends Alternative Craft Fair

On Sunday, JoEllen Cottrell, the executive director of the Winthrop Food Pantry, set up a table at the alternative craft fair at the Winthrop Center Friends Church. At that table, she offered donation gift cards to be purchased on behalf of family and friends. The idea, which many nonprofit organizations use, is to encourage people to make donations that are also gifts to family and friends, and JoEllen had put together some lovely photo cards that included a short note of explanation. I bought a donation card on behalf of a family member, and this will be tucked in among other goodies in that person’s Christmas package.

JoEllen asked for volunteers to help staff the table, and as I was planning to go to the craft fair anyway, I volunteered to join her for a couple of hours. The Friends Church is a lovely white old-fashioned building with stained-glass windows that make the interior rather dark, but somehow, most appropriately for a Friends Church, the effect is peaceful and tranquil rather than gloomy.

Being fellow foodies, JoEllen and I chatted about food and the food pantry. Business was not exactly brisk, although we did make a few sales, but the time was pleasantly spent. More important, we got the food pantry out into the community, and it is our plan to do more of this. As I have written in previous posts about the food pantry, this is a critical moment for our food pantry. Because of the hard economic times, more people need to come to the food pantry yet affordable food has become very difficult to find. For now, at least, getting most of what we need from the Good Shepherd Food Bank for 16 cents a pound seems to be a thing of the past. I will quote Craig Hickman yet again: The excess in the system is drying up.

This means we have to diversify if we are to keep the food pantry running, and part of that strategy involves being ever more present in the community. So to fairs and events we will go, spreading the word about our mission to feed people. There are even plans afoot to march in the holiday parade. Ho-ho-ho!

 

LAND TRUSTS IN MAINE: CONNECTING FARMERS WITH LAND

Thanks to Mark Bittman and the New York Times, I came across this piece by Jane Black about land trusts in Maine and how they are connecting farmers with land. Even in Maine, land is terribly expensive for new farmers who are not part of a family farm, and land trusts purchase land either to rent to farmers for a reasonable fee or to sell the land for less than the purchase price. (I love Maine Farmland Trust’s philosophy, which is to “buy high and sell low.”)

Also, here is a rather shocking statistic from Black’s piece: “In Maine…75 percent of farmland has vanished since 1950. What’s left is often worth more as future house lots than as a farm…”

So let’s hear it for the various Maine land trusts that are working so hard to buy land that in turn will go to the next generation of farmers. With the price of oil going up (and not likely to come down), we need local farmers and the food they produce more than ever.

As I am fond of pointing out, Maine, in the 1800s, used to be the bread basket of New England. While the soil along some of our coastline can be thin, there are plenty of places both inland and by the coast where the soil is rich and deep.

Perhaps sometime in the not so distant future Maine can go back to being the bread basket of New England.