All posts by Clif Graves

MARCH 23, 2012: BITS AND BOBS FROM THE INTERNET

From the New York Times: Helene Cooper’s delightful description of a dinner party in Italy, where the weather is warm and everyone eats outside and the meal starts in early evening and ends sometime around midnight. I must admit, a dinner party like this has always been one of my dreams, too. (It wouldn’t have to be in Italy. Somewhere on the Maine coast would be just fine.)

From the Bowdoin Daily Sun: A slideshow about making maple syrup on campus. Unfortunately, because of the freakishly warm weather, it will not be a good year for maple syrup in central and southern Maine. Let’s hope our neighbors in northern Maine and Canada have better luck. Otherwise, we’ll be stuck with Log Cabin. (Just a reminder: March 25th is Maine Maple Sunday.)

From the Portland Press Herald: A piece by Meredith Goad extolling the virtues of maple syrup. Hear, hear! According to Goad, real maple syrup even has antioxidants. Included in the piece are some recipes, and I want to try the two that feature salmon and scallops.

MARK BITTMAN ASKS: IS A CALORIE A CALORIE?

It sounds like a trick question, I know. Is a calorie a calorie? For many years, the conventional wisdom has been yes, that a calorie is simply the energy derived from eating a particular food. An apple might have, say, 80 calories, and a cookie might have 200 calories. Eat three apples and you have the rough equivalent of the cookie.

But lately, scientists and nutritionists have come to a different point of view. That is, not all calories are created equal, and fruit and vegetables, which are high in fiber, are not digested the same way as processed food. As Mark Bittman notes in his piece in the New York Times, “Fiber is special because it’s not digested or digested incompletely. Most of its calories don’t get into the body, which is one reason why fruits and vegetables, which are high in fiber, help with weight loss.” It’s also the reason why people who adhere to a raw food diet remain thin even when they eat the same number of calories as those who eat cooked and processed food.

Bittman’s piece is really a commentary on Why Calories Count, a new book by Marion Nestle and Malden Nesheim, and it’s one I plan on reading sometime soon. Nestle told Bittman “There are dozens of factors involved in weight regulation. It’s hard to lose weight, because the body is set up to defend fat, so you don’t starve to death; the body doesn’t work as well to tell people to stop eating as when to tell them when to start.” (The emphasis is Nestle’s.)

Nestle also said, “If you’re eating a lot of fruits and vegetables, you’re not taking in as many calories as you would if you were eating fast food and sodas.”

Weight Watchers has recently adopted this point of view—albeit with a fair amount of controversy—and in its point system, fruit now has zero points.

In my own Controlled Cheating diet, where I diet for 6 days and “rest” on the 7th, I eat lots of fruit and vegetables on my noncheating days. I figure I easily reach the recommend “5 a day.” And, lucky me, even though I love sweet, sugary food, I also love fruit and vegetables, which means eating them is a pleasure rather than a chore.

So far, I’ve lost nearly 50 pounds. Onward with the fruit and vegetables!

 

 

 

 

A QUOTATION AND A GIFT, FROM SHARON ASTYK AND FARMER KEV, RESPECTIVELY

“If we are going to have better for ourselves, we have to find it in things that are not vulnerable to collapse—in beauty and community, in the pleasure of good work and family, in things that are low-cost, simple and available. We’re going to have to find a new definition of better.”
—Sharon Astyk

I couldn’t agree more, and it seems to me that our whole anniversary weekend exemplifies the above quotation by Sharon Astyk. Accordingly, I’d like to share a picture of another gift we received last weekend—a very snazzy tote bag that Tim—Farmer Kev’s father—gave to me when I went to pick up two dozen eggs.

I’ll be carrying it proudly.

And stay tuned for Farmer Kev T-shirts.

 

OUR WEDDING ANNIVERSARY WEEKEND: 35 YEARS!

For some reason known only to the gods, my husband, Clif, and I decided to get married in mid-March. Now, March in some states might be delightful, but in Maine, mid-March is usually a discouraging mess that brings such weather delights as snow, mud, cold, sleet, and fields that look like shredded wheat. (This last description I borrowed from my dear, late friend Barbara Johnson.) However, this year March has been very different, with weather so warm that most of the snow is gone, and the roads are bare. Yes, there is mud—where there is frozen ground thawing, there is mud—but it almost seems like an afterthought rather than March’s usual big event.

I realize only too well that this abnormally warm weather is probably due to climate change. At the same time, I must admit I enjoy the warmth. All week long, the meteorologists had been promising grand things for the weather for our anniversary weekend, and when Saturday came, we were not disappointed. The day was sunny and warm, and for Clif and me, this could only mean one thing—a bike ride, the first of the season, on March 17th, and the earliest we have ever ridden our bikes.

We went along our usual route along Maranacook Lake, and how odd it seemed to be biking while there was still ice on the water. There were even a few brave (or foolish) souls ice-fishing—complete with little shack— not too far from shore. With the way spring is progressing, the days of ice-fishing will soon be coming to a close, and I expect the ice will be leaving the ponds and lakes early this year.

Clif and I weren’t the only two on our bikes, and there were plenty of walkers as well. Even when the winter is mild, people are sick of it by the end and are ready for the weather to be warm enough so that being outside is pleasant.

We stopped at Mia Lina’s for some of their delicious Lina bread—pizza dough with melted cheese and served with a marinara sauce for dipping. A good way to kick off spring and to celebrate our anniversary.

More culinary delights were waiting for us at home. I had bought scallops. My, they are expensive—$16 a pound. As the man at the fish counter weighed and packaged them for me, I observed philosophically, “It’s cheaper than eating out.”

“It sure is,” he replied. “You can be spend $16 for two on a meal at McDonald’s.”

And it hardly needs to be said that the McDonald’s meals wouldn’t be anywhere near as good as those scallops.

Both Clif and I really like Scalloped Scallops, a recipe I’ve adapted from an old Fannie Farmer cookbook. (Click here to get the recipe.) It’s one of those perfect celebratory dishes—really special but very simple to make, which means the cook gets to enjoy herself, too, in the course of the day. (We also made homemade s’mores ice cream for dessert. Another easy but delicious dish to make.) Over the years, Scalloped Scallops has come to be the centerpiece of our anniversary meals.

More treats were in store for Sunday. Our daughter Shannon and our son-in-law, Mike, live in South Portland, and they invited us over for a meal of roast chicken with the fixings and homemade chocolate cake for dessert.

As Sunday was even warmer than Saturday, before going to Shannon and Mike’s house, Clif and I nipped over to Crescent Beach State Park for a picnic and a walk on the beach. I found a lovely shell and a pearl-like rock to commemorate our anniversary. Very appropriately, Shannon and Mike had put together a snappy three-photo grouping of our dog, Liam, enjoying himself on Crescent Beach. A perfect present.

Today, the actual day of our anniversary, is another beauty. Clif only works half-days on Monday, which means there will be yet another celebratory bike ride.

What a great three days!

 

 

 

IF PATTIES DON’T WORK OUT, THEN MAKE HASH

Recently, I was given a big bunch of fresh basil. Oh, happy day! How I love it, and I can’t wait until the time comes when I can harvest it from my own pots. I made a tomato sauce with a lot of the basil, but there was still some left over, so I decided to make potato patties with tuna and basil.

As my daughter Shannon has noted, I have a tendency to be a “recipe, shmecipe,” kind of person. Sometimes this is a good thing, especially when I make soups. It has led me to all sorts of experiments that have been very tasty. But sometimes this recipe, shmecipe approach can lead to mistakes, and this is what happened with the patties.

I started out with 5 medium red potatoes and boiled them. My husband, Clif, loves potato patties, and it seemed to me that five would make enough for leftovers as well as seconds for Clif. (He is a seconds kind of guy.) While the potatoes were cooking, I chopped two heaping tablespoons of basil and one clove of garlic. When the potatoes were done, I riced them and added the basil, garlic, salt, and pepper. So far, so good. Now how much milk and butter to add? This is the point when a recipe would have been handy. As it turned out, I sloshed too much milk—about half a cup—into a saucepan and added a pat of butter. When the milk and butter were heated, I added half to the potato mixture. The consistency was just right, and I knew it. But what was I going to do with the rest of that organic milk and butter? Throw it out? I don’t think so. My brain was stuck in one gear—getting supper ready—and I couldn’t think of how I would use that bit of extra milk and butter for anything else.

Therefore, into the potatoes went the rest of the milk and butter, and now the potatoes were too soupy. No surprise, but darn! I added an egg and a small can of tuna. Still too soupy. I added some grated cheese. Ditto. What to do? Another egg. Heavens, what a mess, and still so runny that I had to ladle by spoonful the mixture into the hot frying pan. (I had used about half the mixture.)

Still, I had hope. I thought maybe if the patties sizzled for five minutes on one side, then they would be firm enough to flip. Well, they were not, and the patties broke up as I tried to flip them.

With my hopes dashed, I considered my options. This was our supper, and I had to come up with something, and that something was hash. I had used about half the mixture for the patties, now smashed to bits in the pan, and I dumped in the rest as well. I let the underneath get very brown and then flipped the whole thing as best as I could so that it would brown on the other side.

The results? Well, readers, I lucked out yet again. The hash was so good that not only did Clif go back for seconds, but he ate all that remained. There were no leftovers, and “I could have eaten more,” Clif admitted a little sheepishly. “That hash was pretty darned good.”

Recipe, shmecipe, indeed! But next time, I will only use 1/4 cup of milk, and I will measure it.

MARCH 16, 2012: BITS AND BOBS FROM THE INTERNET

From the Bowdoin Daily Sun: Good news, women! You can stop dieting…when you are 85. Apparently, when you reach that age, it’s advantageous for the body to have extra fat, which “provides energy in times of trauma and stress.” (I expect in earlier times, when food was scarcer, it was advantageous for most people to have extra fat.)

From the New York Times: A study suggesting that red meat is even worse for you than was previously thought. I can’t help but wonder, is it the meat itself, or is it the terrible way we raise beef in this country? Is the same true in countries such as France, where cows are raised the way they were meant to be raised—no hormones and in a pasture?

From Examiner.com: And then there is cheese. According to Mary Bender, cheese is actually good for you and doesn’t really affect your cholesterol. This almost makes up for the bad news about beef.

From the Portland Press Herald: On the other hand, maybe you’ll want to hold the cheese as well as the beef. Avery Yale Kamila writes about Dr. Gaylen Johnson and his Michael Pollan-ish point of view: eat mostly plants.

One thing is certain, all these points of views and studies keep the rest of us bobbing in a state of confusion.

 

 

COOKING AS A HOBBY?

In the New York Times, there is a piece by Julia Moskin about being a ghost writer for cookbooks. As I read her descriptions about what it was like to work for various chefs, I thought, “There is no bloody way I would want to do that.” Many of the chefs she worked with were rude, difficult, egocentric blokes, and one even had a wife who was so insecure that she didn’t want Moskin’s name on the cover of the book. Why do writers do it? Because it can “be a gateway to better things.” (Sounds a little bit like a drug, doesn’t it?) Regardless of the “gateway,” most cookbook ghost writers don’t last very long in the job.

But perhaps the most damning statement is that in some cases, the chefs don’t even supply and test their own recipes. “At the most extreme level, a few highly paid ghostwriter-cooks actually produce entire books, from soup to nuts…One recent best-selling tome on regional cooking was produced entirely in a New York apartment kitchen, with almost no input from the author.” Makes you want to run right out and buy a chef’s cookbook, doesn’t it?

But even more curious, at least to me, was the following: “The authors most likely to write and thoroughly test their own work are trained cooks who do not work in restaurants, like Molly Stevens, Deborah Madison and Grace Young, and obsessive hobbyist cooks like Jennifer McLagan and Barbara Kafka.” (The emphasis is mine.)

The obsessive part I get. Many cooks are food obsessed—I plead guilty to that charge—and cooking can be a natural extension of that obsession, especially when you can’t afford to eat out very often. It’s the “hobbyist” part that brought me up short. Cooking as a hobby? I had never considered something so essential as cooking to be a hobby. To me, a hobby is a slightly frivolous albeit enjoyable pastime such as collecting stamps or flying model airplanes.

Cooking, on the other hand, is what you do to ensure that your household has meals that both taste good and are good for the body. In addition, what we eat influences not only our health but also the health of the planet. (Pesticides, hormones, industrial animal farming with its manure lagoons. You know the drill.) When we buy local, when we buy organic, when we buy eggs from hens that have been treated humanely, we go beyond the personal to a larger way of thinking that can have profound effects on our society and even the world.

Cooking as a hobby? I don’t think so. Cooking is far too important to be reduced to a hobby.

 

 

 

 

 

ON BEING A HOMEBODY

As I’ve mentioned before in this blog, I am what might be called a homebody. For me, home is best, and traveling, however broadening it might be, is not my thing. I love the rhythm of home life—the writing, the puttering, the cooking, the community, and I am willing to be as frugal as can be so that I can stay home.

When one writes such a retro statement, qualifications are immediately in order, and I will duly note them. First, I realize that not everyone is a homebody, and I respect that. To paraphrase Jane from Pride and Prejudice, we are not all alike. Some people, indeed many of my friends, need to be out and about with other people. Simply put, staying at home, day after day, mostly alone, would drive them nuts. So out they go, and out they should be.

Second, some people have a passion for their jobs. My friend Alice, who works with hearing-impaired folks, feels this way about her job. She thinks she is making a difference, and that is indeed a good feeling. I expect many in the service professions—teachers, nurses, social workers, fire fighters, to name a few—feel this way, too, and they are doing exactly what they should be. Lucky are those who love their jobs, especially when those jobs fall under the category of right livelihood, which Alice’s certainly does.

Third, most people need to work to earn money. Few of us are independently wealthy, and for many families, two incomes are essential. (Try supporting a family on two jobs that pay $10 an hour and see how lavish the lifestyle is. In Maine, at least, there are many families who fit this category.) Most people need to earn money by working outside the home.

Therefore, while respecting the choices that others make—sometimes by necessity, sometimes by choice—I am so grateful and happy to be able to do what I love—stay in my own cozy home and write and cook and putter. I would also argue that by staying home, I save as much money as many low-paying Maine jobs provide. Because I stay at home, my husband and I only need 1 car. This is a huge savings. My wardrobe can be very basic—blue jeans are perfectly fine—and I can fill in with thrift store finds. By cooking so much from scratch, I not only save money but I also make mostly vegetarian meals that are so much healthier than their processed counterparts at the grocery store. Because I am home, I (mostly) don’t have that rushed, frazzled feeling that so many working families have, when it seems far easier to get takeout than to cook a meal at home.

Finally, but just as important, because I stay at home, I have time to be involved with my community—to volunteer at the food pantry, to be a trustee at the library, and to to be on the town’s green committee. To my way of thinking, a vibrant community is essential to the health of a village, town, or city, and volunteers play a crucial role.

So while it might seem a little poky to love being a homebody (and, by extension, a homemaker), there are lots of benefits, and as oil becomes less available and more expensive, those benefits will be even greater.

It’s my guess that in the upcoming decades, more of us will become homebodies. We can either complain that we are “stuck” at home with no place to go, or we—men as well as women—can turn our creative energies toward our homes and our communities.

 

OPEN LAND FOR CENTRAL MAINE FARMS, OR THE LACK THEREOF

Not long ago, Tim Leavitt, Farmer Kev’s father, came to our house to deliver eggs. The Leavitts have 5 hens, and most of the eggs we eat come from those hens. Usually, we swing by the Leavitts’ house to pick up the eggs, but since we know Kevin’s parents, and since they were out and about, they decided to deliver the eggs to us. (How cool is that?)

Naturally, after Tim delivered the eggs, we chatted a bit. Farmer Kev is a third-year student at the University of Maine at Orono, and we speculated about what Kevin would do when he graduated from college.

“He’d like to get a farm,” Tim said. “With the profits he’s made from his gardens, he’s bought quite a bit of equipment, but he can’t buy a tractor until he has a place to keep it.”

“Like his own barn,” I said. “Oh, I wish he’d come back to the Winthrop area to farm, and I know a lot of people, including other farmers, who feel the same way.”

Tim smiled. “We’d like to have him stay in this area, too.”

“Could Maine Farmland Trust perhaps give him a grant. I know land is so expensive.”

“Maybe,” Tim said, “But one of the biggest problems around here is finding open land that hasn’t been developed. It’s not easy.”

Open land that hasn’t been developed. I should have thought of this as a problem, but somehow I hadn’t. This part of Maine is so rural that it seems as though there is plenty of land. In one sense there is, but much of the land around here has trees, lots of trees. You might even call this area “heavily wooded.” Now, trees are great, and so are woods. We want to have them. In fact, we need them for the health of the planet. But to grow vegetables, open land is needed, and Tim is right. Much of the open land around here has been sold for house lots. While land can be cleared, it is a heck of a process as well as an expense.

This lack of open land for farming in the Winthrop area could become a serious problem as the price of fuel goes up, and food becomes ever more expensive to ship across country. I’ve become interested in a movement called Transition, which started in England. The Transition Movement focuses on how towns might become more resilient to deal with the problems brought about by climate change and peak oil. There are Transition communities around the world, working on projects ranging from CSAs, local currencies, and seed swaps as well as many other projects. Winthrop is in the “mulling” stages of becoming a Transition Town.

But let us return to the problem of finding open land that hasn’t been developed. This, in turn, leads to the question: Could Winthrop feed itself if push came to shove?

This is a question I’ll be asking local farmers. It will be interesting to get their take on the subject, and I will, of course, be writing about their responses as well as more about the Transition Movement.

And, now, readers, I have a question for you. Could your community feed itself?

 

 

A TRIBUTE TO MY MOTHER

Recently, I received an email from my friend Kate Johnson, and I have her permission to reprint it in this post.

“I’m making your mom’s biscuit recipe this evening.  Roasted a chicken last Thursday and have leftovers.  Chicken and gravy with a bit of asparagus over those biscuits will make for a delicious dinner when we get home from our indoor cycle class. Best biscuit recipe ever!”

A wonderful tribute to Mom, who was a fabulous baker. (Better than I am, in fact.) From pie crusts to cookies to cakes to fudge, everything she baked was utterly delicious.

Biscuits go with many things, with chicken and gravy and a bit of asparagus. With any kind of soup. With eggs for breakfast. A little peanut butter on a biscuit makes a tasty lunch. Biscuits are one of those homely foods that never go out of style, and Kate is right. My mom’s biscuit recipe is the best biscuit recipe ever. (Here is a link to my mother’s biscuit recipe.)