SOME GOOD FOODIE POINTS

Here are a couple of posts that make some good foodie points. The first is Julia Moskin’s New York Times review of the restaurant Buvette, which is in New York City on Bleecker Street. Buvette is a French restaurant, but casual rather than formal. Moskin describes many of their dishes, which certainly made my mouth water, and then ended with this: “Buvette stands for wallowing gracefully in modest luxuries: a well-made omelet, a well-seasoned horseradish cream sauce, a well-balanced chocolate mousse.”

I love “wallowing in modest luxuries.” It gives me pleasure just to think about this lovely phrase, and it is exactly the right approach to food—a way filled with pleasure but also a way that is sustainable, not at all over-the-top, and definitely not snobby.

The second piece, written by Anne Mahle, is in the Portland Press Herald, and it addresses the extreme concern that some people have about eating the right thing—always local, always organic, always perfectly good for you. Then, in their busy lives, when they slip and buy, say, a frozen pizza or nonlocal milk, or, the worst horror of all, they actually slink into a fast food restaurant for something to eat because they have a meeting in a half hour and there just isn’t time to cook and eat before the damned thing starts, they have guilt, guilt, and more guilt.

Mahle briskly does away with these dark blots on our foodie consciences: “The guilt and stress we create for ourselves around food are, to my mind, a complete waste of energy….It is the striving that is important…”

Mahle is right. The striving, the work that goes into being, if I may borrow from myself, a good eater, a responsible eater, should never end because even though progress might sometimes be slow, success does come with practice.

And if we slip from time to time, as most people will? Then there is always tomorrow, when we perhaps we won’t slip.

ERIC SCHLOSSER’S THOUGHTS ON BEING A “FOODIE ELITIST”

Today, via the New York Times, I came across a piece Eric Schlosser wrote for the Washington Post. The piece’s title is “Why Being a Foodie Isn’t Elitist,” and Schlosser, who wrote Fast Food Nation, addresses the charges that the food industry and its attendant lobbying groups have leveled against food writers and activists such as Michael Pollan and Marion Nestle, and Schlosser himself.

Schlosser has been called “not only an elitist, but also a socialist, a communist and un-American.” Nestle has been labeled, “a food fascist,” and Pollan has been accused of being “anti-agricultural.”

Naturally, Schlosser refutes the charges, arguing that it is not elitist to be concerned about the quality of food Americans eat, and I agree with him. He views the name calling as “misdirection,” an attempt to deflect attention away from the few companies who control food production in the United States. Again, I agree. What better way to discredit someone than to call him a socialist or a communist? In our culture, those are very dirty words, just slightly below serial killer and child molester.

Schlosser honestly notes the way foodies can be elitist, by using food as a way to gain status. Expensive cookware, hard-to-find ingredients, and pricey restaurants can all be symptoms of a snobbery that not only drains the fun out of eating but could also “sideline the movement or make it irrelevant.”

Fair enough, but Schlosser’s original point is correct: It is not elitist to care about the quality of food that Americans—especially those who are poor—eat. It is not elitist to care about people’s health. And it is certainly not elitist to be concerned that the food production in this country is in the hands of a few big businesses. It seems to me that it is quite appropriate to be worried about all these issues, and it would be a very good thing if more people were, too.

And I’m going to go one step further. It is not elitist to enjoy cooking with simple ingredients that are easy to find but are of good quality. It is not elitist to enjoy feeding friends and family. And it is certainly not elitist to enjoy food.

The French believe it is the birthright of all French citizens, regardless of income, to eat good food. Hear, hear!

And this belief couldn’t be less elitist. In fact, you might even call it democratic.

 

 

 

MACARONI AND CHEESE AT THE NEW APARTMENT

Still life with ShannonExcept for a few odds and ends in their old apartment, my daughter Shannon and her husband, Mike, are all moved into their new apartment in South Portland. Bless those movers! They certainly took a lot of the stress out of moving. My husband, Clif, and I simply can’t haul couches and chairs up and down stairs, the way we once could.

When we got to South Portland, after the movers were done, Clif and I helped Mike and Shannon set up their bedroom and living room. It’s amazing how much progress we made. While there is still work to be done in both rooms, we did get them arranged so that they were usable and comfortable, even.

Adam, the young landlord, stopped by, and he is so pleased with the colors Mike and Shannon chose for the apartment. In turn, I told him how much I loved the old house and also complimented him on his job refinishing the wood floors.

Smiling, Adam was clearly pleased. “This summer I want to pour as much money as I can into this house.”

For Adam, the house is a labor love, and while it needs work, I expect he will get it back into shape. It will take him a while—he works full time—but he’ll do it.

After getting the living room and bedroom into some kind of order, it was time for dinner. As I wrote in Friday’s post, I spent that day cooking for the first official dinner in their new apartment. I made bread and macaroni and cheese. For dessert, brownies. And just so that it wouldn’t be a complete carb fest, I also brought salad.

Cheers!The finishing touch? Sparkling cider and Champagne glasses for a toast to the new apartment: May they have many, many happy years there.

On the way home that night, Clif and I were a little blue that Mike and Shannon were no longer a quick drive from where we live. But, we know they are where they should be, especially with the high price of gas and for employment opportunities as well. Unfortunately, with the state cutting back, central Maine has few job opportunities.

In addition, there are many things to love about the Portland area: There are lots of great places to eat, it’s close to the ocean, and it’s close to Trader Joe’s, where I’ll be getting a lot of the organic food that I can’t find locally. (Note: This year we are getting into a CSA program with Farmer Kev, but that will be a subject for another post.)

I already have a Portland trip to look forward to. Next Sunday is Mother’s Day, and Shannon and Mike will be making lobster rolls for lunch. After that, we’ll all go for a walk to the ocean. For me, it doesn’t get much better than that.

Now, if only our eldest daughter, Dee, lived within an easy drive so that she could join us.

 

Some notes about macaroni and cheese, and a few suggestions

Shannon loves my macaroni and cheese, and I will admit that it is pretty good. Over the years, I have learned a few tips—a really important one from America’s Test Kitchen. That is, the cheese sauce should be a little runny because when the macaroni and cheese is baked, the pasta swells and absorbs the sauce. If the sauce is too thick, then the effect will be one gloppy dish. Not inedible, but not smooth and nice, either.

Here are the proportions:

9 oz. of uncooked macaroni
2 1/2 cups of milk
2 cups of grated cheddar. (I use one of Cabot’s sharp cheddars.)
3 tablespoons of butter
3 tablespoons of flour
1/4 teaspoon of nutmeg (This adds a lovely flavor.)
Salt and pepper to taste

While I’m at it, I might as well give directions, even though I have included this recipe in one of my old posts. That way, you won’t have to hunt for it.

Cook the macaroni in a big stock pot. Drain when done and set aside in a large bowl. In a big sauce pan, melt the butter, add the four, and whisk until bubbly. Whisk in the milk and then stir until thickened. Another tip: the sauce is done when it leaves a line across the back of a wooden spoon. (It might work with a regular spoon, too, but I always stir with a wooden spoon. Somehow, it just feels better.) Add the cheese and stir until smooth.

Pour the cheese sauce over the macaroni, and mix it up, and then pour into a buttered casserole dish. I always like to tear up a few pieces of bread into crumbs for the top. Bake at 350° for 40 minutes or until the mixture is bubbly.

 

 

 

 

 

THE MOVE TO SOUTH PORTLAND

Tomorrow, my daughter Shannon and her husband, Mike, will be moving from Farmingdale, right around the corner from us, to South Portland, about an hour or so away. While my husband and I will really miss having them close by, it will be so good for them to be minutes rather than an hour away from work. Even though their new apartment is more expensive than the one they are leaving, Shannon and Mike will save so much money on gas that they will actually come out ahead.

Today will be another one of those “flurry of cooking” days. I’ll be making food for the first official meal in the new apartment. On the docket for today’s cooking are brownies, bread, and macaroni and cheese in a casserole dish, the latter of which can be popped in the oven when we are ready to eat.

In fact, we’ve already had informal meals—chili and pizza—at the new apartment. We set up camp chairs in the dining room and used a cooler for a little table. This cozy arrangement reminded me of another move, long ago, when I was eight years old, and my family moved from a tiny ranch in Waterville, Maine, to a big farmhouse in neighboring North Vassalboro.

One afternoon, my father’s brother, Leo, and his wife, Barney—Bernadette, but no one ever called her that—and their two daughters, Linda and Carol, helped my parents clean the new farmhouse and get ready for the move. After the cleaning was done, we all sat on the bright yellow floor in the kitchen as we ate our meal. I can’t remember what the meal was, and, as astonishing as this might sound coming from a foodie, I’m not sure it really mattered.

I remember my mother saying, “How funny we must look, sitting on the floor like this.”

And we all laughed. I suppose we did look funny. But what a feeling of camaraderie, of accomplishment, of helping. We would have, of course, done the same thing for my aunt, uncle, and cousins.

Sometimes, the memories of shared meals are just as important as the actual food.

 

TOO MANY OVENS IN FALMOUTH?

A couple of days ago, in the food section of the Portland Press Herald, Meredith Goad wrote about a home (a mansion, really) and its kitchen, which is part of the Falmouth Kitchen & Tasting tour. The house is 10,000 square feet, has ten bathrooms, and gold-plated faucets. There is even a morning room, which sounds like something straight out of a Jane Austen novel.

The kitchen, which Goad describes as “not so large that it is overwhelming”  has “four ovens, two dishwashers, two warming drawers…” Four ovens! I will admit that from time to time, I have wished for two ovens, especially around the holidays, but what possible use could a noncommercial cook have with four ovens? Isn’t this, well, a bit much? In fact, isn’t it too much?

I suppose that is the point—the glorious excess of it all. As primates, we are all concerned with status, even though we live in the 21st century in a country that supposedly eschews class. And in our current culture, where one oven is the norm, four ovens are so over-the-top that few people can compete with such a display.

Now, I would not want to live in a country where the government dictates how many ovens a family might own. Although I am a firm believer in social services, that would be far too much governmental control for my liking. But wouldn’t it be nice if people with enough money to live in a 10,000 square foot mansion with four ovens followed the Dalai Lama’s advice and used some self-restraint?  Especially since this country is already using more resources than the planet can comfortably provide?

Since I am clearly in fantasy land here, I will go one step further: Wouldn’t it be great if our sense of status came from self-restraint rather than showy display? Not repression—no one likes a Puritan. Not a stingy, bare-bones existence—no one likes a martyr. But instead self-restraint, which might mean being content with two ovens and a bib house that wasn’t a mansion, no matter how much money you had.

A final note of irony: This tour is a benefit for Preble Street’s Maine Hunger Initiative, and I’m sure they will be very happy to receive the money. From here I could easily segue into a piece about how strange it is that one of the richest countries in the world still must deal with hunger.

But I won’t.

 

BOWDOIN COLLEGE STUDENTS GET THEIR HANDS DIRTY

Nothing cheers me up as much as reading about young people working in gardens and on farms. Today, I read an article from the Bowdoin Daily Sun and learned that on Eco Service Day, some of the Bowdoin students took time out from studying to clean eggs, spread hay, plant seedlings, and prune apple trees.

Good for them!

Another cheering bit of news from that same article in the Bowdoin Daily Sun: “[T]he increasing popularity of local agriculture comes from younger Mainers (and more broadly, Americans) who are interested in restoring a connection to the land.”

Let’s hear it for young farmers. We certainly need them.

LUNCH WITH SHANE AT MIA LINA’S

On Wednesday, I walked into Winthrop to meet Shane, one of the town’s librarians, for lunch at Mia Lina’s. I am happy to report that spring has finally come to central Maine. The grass has turned a bright green, bird song fills the air, water rushes by in the ditches, and the maple trees are in bloom with lovely but modest red flowers. Spring is here, it is here. And even though the day was  gray and damp, the walk, filled with so much to look at and to see, was a pleasant one.

Mia Lina’s is a little pizza place on Main Street, but the food there is better than average. One of my favorite things to order is the chicken teriyaki salad, little chunks of nicely marinated chicken sprinkled over romaine lettuce mixed with other tidbits—cheese, peppers, and olives. A little drizzle of Italian dressing, and you have yourself a pretty good salad. I also love the Lina bread, fresh dough cooked with cheese and served with a side of tomato sauce for dipping. However, although I can eat a whole order by myself, I shouldn’t do so, and I only get Lina bread when I’m with someone who wants to share it with me.

Shane ordered the ravioli, which came with garlic bread, and he said it was tasty.

While the food was good, the conservation was terrific. Shane is about the age of my eldest daughter, but already he is a great conversationalist, a true gift that not everyone has. Shane talks, but he also listens, and because he is devoted to books and music, his mind is lively and interesting.

Along with a little personal chitchat, we talked about what we were reading. Shane just finished reading Swim Back to Me by Ann Packer. Shane spoke about how moved he was by this collection of two novellas and some short stories. As Shane described the opening novella and its two teenage protagonists, he certainly made me want to read it.

In turn, I told him about three books I’ve recently read, which all receive “stars” in my reading journal. The first is Elizabeth Tova Bailey’s The Sound of a Wild Snail Eating, a short but soulful memoir about a debilitating pathogen Bailey contracted when she was young, and how, as an invalid, she found solace watching a snail a friend brought to her.

The second is Carl Safina’s The View from Lazy Point. Safina is a marine biologist who can write beautifully and affectingly about the oceans of the world. He also includes stern lectures about overfishing and global warming and controlling our appetites.

Then there is Joan Reardon’s As Always Julia: The Letters of Julia Child & Avis Devoto. The title is self-explanatory, and I hope to soon write a proper book review for this blog.

From there we moved to music—to the great singer/songwriters of the 1970s as well as the wonderful music of the 1990s.

All too soon it was time for Shane to go to the library to begin his shift and for me to return home for household chores.

But a little book and music talk can sure brighten a gray day.

SHANNON’S MOOSEWOOD BIRTHDAY MEAL

Salmon and riceOn Saturday, we celebrated our daughter Shannon’s birthday, and the tradition in our house is for the birthday “boy” or “girl” to choose whatever he or she wants for dinner. Shannon’s choice has remained steady for many years, and it is what she picked for this birthday—Asian fish packets, a recipe from one of my Moosewood cookbooks. This recipe can be made with any fish fillet—Shannon’s favorite is salmon—and it is simple but oh so good. You cook rice, make a soy sauce/ginger marinade, then on foil, put together individual packets of rice topped with fish and marinade. Close those little packets, put them on a cookie sheet, and bake for 20 to 25 minutes.

The tricky part is getting the marinaded fish and rice out of the packets so that the plated meal looks as elegant as it tastes. It’s best done with two people, and over the years, Clif and I have developed a technique where he scoops with a long spatula, and I slide the dinner plate under the fish and rice at what I hope is just the right moment.

The Moosewood cookbooks for my generation—late baby boomers—are what Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking was to an earlier generation. Just as American cooking “before Julia” was, shall we say, a little on the bland side, so was “before Moosewood” vegetarian cooking. In fact, there is a strikingly similar note between before Julia and before Moosewood. Not that there weren’t exceptions, but onion was about the only ingredient used for flavoring in both of the cooking eras before Julia and before Moosewood. No dill, no basil, very little garlic—heck, hardly any parsley. Forget about cilantro or chili peppers. And vegetarian cooking without spices is a pretty grim affair. Onion simply isn’t enough to overcome the bland heaviness of whole wheat flour and brown rice. It is from this time period that vegetarian cooking gained its bad reputation.

Then along came Moosewood Restaurant, which opened in 1973 in Ithaca, New York, and specialized in vegetarian cooking that was decidedly not bland and boring. It was as if they took Julia Child’s principles and applied them to vegetarian cooking—ingredients that were fresh and of high quality cooked with skill as well as with herbs and spices.

Moosewood is a collective, and on their web page, their description of the collective and the restaurant is very impressive. Do read it if you have a chance. I especially liked “[w]e recognize that we’re not all equally good at everything, nor do we have to be. We find ways to accommodate our differences and play to our individual strengths, while keeping opportunities open and accessible.” My philosophy exactly.

From the restaurant came the many cookbooks that guided my generation toward vegetarian cooking that was pleasing to the palate as well as good for the planet. I have three of their books, and I use them often.

According to their website, “Moosewood was named one of the thirteen most influential restaurants of the 20th Century by Bon Appetit magazine,” and this recognition is well deserved. Even though my philosophy is to stick close to home, I would love to make a pilgrimage to Ithaca to visit Moosewood. Perhaps I will someday.

In the meantime, we will cook from their wonderful cookbooks, not only once a year for Shannon’s birthday, but throughout the year as well.

Addendum: The recipe for the Asian Fish Packets can be found in the Moosewood Restaurant Cooks at Home, book we have featured in this post.

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